Towing with class C motorhome

FENDERFAB

FENDERFAB

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Hey Guys,

Looking to get some opinions or info from you guys on towing with a Class C motorhome.

I currently have a fs3000 weekend warrior and a 3500hd silverado.  I leave my trailer in storage in glamis and tow my race truck out on a flatbed trailer ( truck doesnt fit in the trailer) and i am looking to downsize my setup.  My goal is to go into a smallish class C motorhome and tow my truck on the flatbed.  i figure my truck weighs anywhere from 5000-5500lbs and my flatbed around 2k lbs. Plus fuel etc i figure around 8k lbs towing weight.

I am wondering what class C motorhomes would be capable of towing this setup?  I have friends with Super C rigs ( senecas) and its a real nice setup but out of my budget.  Im looking for something around the 30-45k price range.  I really like the Fun mover motorhomes with the garage in the back but they dont have much towing capacity.  I know many people overload their rigs and dont have issues- im not opposed to having a custom hitch built etc but i want to do this safely and not destroy the motorhome. 

Open to any opinions or insight you guys have!  I know the likely answer is class a pusher which could be an option i dont want anything massive though its just me and my fiance and occasionally another couple that camps with us.  We do plan to have kids in the future but this doesnt need to be my "forever rig" if you will.  Im not opposed to something bigger in the future.  

Thanks!!

 
Class C's are typically 5k tow rating (or less). I have a 32' Coachman Freelander (that I might be selling 🙂 ) It tows good but stopping would be the issue. I had a 18' Yiro trailer and put a Alumicraft prerunner on it. When I had the trailer built, I added brakes on both axles. I would guess that around 4-5K lbs. It towed and stopped fine. I currently to a little Jeep and that is no problem. Most gasser Class A's are only rated for 5k towing too. 

 
Thank you!! I have a yiro knock off if you will, its a 20x102 and has brakes on both axles. 

Are you running the factory hitch that came on your rv or did you have something heavier duty built? 

 
I would upgrade the hitch and frame, tongue weight can destroy the Moho.  The frame can bend all the way to mid chassis, not a good situation.  Engine can tow it, add brakes to trailer and you can stop it.

 
Cookie said:
I would upgrade the hitch and frame, tongue weight can destroy the Moho.  The frame can bend all the way to mid chassis, not a good situation.  Engine can tow it, add brakes to trailer and you can stop it.
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thank you bro.  I do fab work but im sure theres some guys that specialize in custom hitches and frame plating for these?  I remember someone mentioning a guy in so cal that does this.  

Im assuming i would need a upgraded custom hitch and full frame plating? 

 
I would try to stay away from the ones with a big tail behind the rear wheels.  Only because my cousin had one and it had so much flex with the frame that the coach started separating from the cab.  He did tow a flatbed trailer that was pretty heavy with his race truck on it.  

 
Airbags will be your friend along with an upgraded hitch.   

 
I had an 02 winnebago 31'. I boxed the frame from the e450 chassis all the way to the back and threw in a couple cross braces in as well. Tack welded the hitch on and Air bags helped a ton. It towed a 24' box trailer with 50 gallons of water,sand rail,quads etc..  

 
I have owned a few Class C RV's  mostly because they fit in my Garage, and I have towed up to my 28' enclosed with two light cars  (8000lbs) but mostly towed just over 5000Lbs on my single car enclosed, and went a bit over for the last 30 miles (filled the fuel station). 

And had MIXED luck ..  Power wise as long as you are reasonable a 5000Lb trailer is not bad, an 8000Lb trailer is miserable (Ford v10 with a banks kit)

Suspension wise  - I tried Air Bags and hated them after i fought the wind and hated them more when the lines started leaking.   I went an had my rear springs re arched and had a leaf added  - that was great along with a weight distro hitch (was about $1000 parts and labor).  But in Wind I was white Knuckled Often...

My hitch was rated for 7000Lbs and welded to the frame - I swapped all the Grade 5 bolts for Grade 8 as a best practice and of course put in a Good brake contoller.

Then on the next Moho I discovered changing sway bar and a track locator - they fixed all the Wind issues (about $1000 and I did the labor). I also had the alignment re done to add some positive caster - that fixed the MoHo from drifting with or without the trailer - I did that now on every Moho - that was $350 because I went to a good RV alignment shop

BUT I never got away from blow outs - and THAT is the big issue  As soon as I started towing 5000 or more I had at least one a Year - and I was Carfeful NOT to overload the Moho - I left a lot of stuff home to help. 

I found the only fix was to spend $4000 and go the 17.5 Tires and wheels  -- they are the same size but 2x the weight rating  - I could only get the wheels form https://ricksontruckwheels.com/wheels-ford-e350450.php      Problem solved.  And I added the weight back into the MoHo -  will Neve use 16" on a class C again

So bottomline stay under 6000Lbs, update suspension and wheels and tires and you are good to go 

 
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I like my auto level on my toy hauler,  does anyone miss that with a Class C, also i see some Class C are now 4x4,  is it worth the price, 

 
J Alper said:
I like my auto level on my toy hauler,  does anyone miss that with a Class C, also i see some Class C are now 4x4,  is it worth the price, 
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I had 1 class C with Auto level jacks - it was great  -missed it on others  - you just need to make sure they reinforce the frame  - I have seen the swing downs rip out of the frame. 

 
Look for an Endura Max (or similar) for sale by a private seller (Kodiak chassis)- for your price range you will eventually find one with the 8.1 Chevy and Allison...this combo will pull that weight better than a v10. The Gas engines in these coaches are rated to tow more, but only because the engine weighs less...IIRC it's 7500 rated where the diesel is 6000 (obviously the Duramax makes more power, but also cost 10 to 20k more).  Example on rv trader below - but it doesn't list the mileage so assuming its high...Use sites like searchtempest to search craigslist nationwide - keep looking and waiting and you'll find a deal eventually..this assume you don't need to finance or can float the money and finance one you own it / have title.  I had this same motorhome and found it in Oklahoma for 31k (like 8 years ago)...deals are out there, just be patient and ready to act ASAP when you dine one - and with gas prices things might drop, who knows.

image.png

 
J Alper said:
I like my auto level on my toy hauler,  does anyone miss that with a Class C, also i see some Class C are now 4x4,  is it worth the price, 
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I called this company  - they charge 14 to 15k and can convert almost any class C.  They prefer 2007 newer fords...there are a few class A's built on an E350 chassis too - that they can do, but there are only a few models and lengths are 27 foot max.
4x4 Motorhome Conversion - Advanced 4X4 Vans

 
wesinls said:
Look for an Endura Max (or similar) for sale by a private seller (Kodiak chassis)- for your price range you will eventually find one with the 8.1 Chevy and Allison...this combo will pull that weight better than a v10. The Gas engines in these coaches are rated to tow more, but only because the engine weighs less...IIRC it's 7500 rated where the diesel is 6000 (obviously the Duramax makes more power, but also cost 10 to 20k more).  Example on rv trader below - but it doesn't list the mileage so assuming its high...Use sites like searchtempest to search craigslist nationwide - keep looking and waiting and you'll find a deal eventually..this assume you don't need to finance or can float the money and finance one you own it / have title.  I had this same motorhome and found it in Oklahoma for 31k (like 8 years ago)...deals are out there, just be patient and ready to act ASAP when you dine one - and with gas prices things might drop, who knows.

View attachment 27733
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My 8.1 runs away from the V10 on any hill, this would be a great option

 
Cookie said:
My 8.1 runs away from the V10 on any hill, this would be a great option
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I like those as well  everyone I looked at was beat unfortunately when I was buying - I think they are better built - but Unicorns - Hard to find and everyone prices them that was from what I have seen

I would do that over a V10 but really the new Ford Godzilla 7.3 is getting excellent reviews

 
I recently bought a 2022 Jayco Redhawk 31F. It’s there largest class C that isn’t a Super C. It comes in right at 32 ft long. It has the new Ford 7.3 in it and has a tow capacity of 7500lbs. I tow a 20ft enclosed with a 4 seat RZR and 4 quads. Right around 6,400 lbs and it tows great. Takes a bit to get up to speed but once you’re there, it does well. 
 

Only picture I have of the set up. 
590B1A28-731B-40C5-8293-BDD83267AB72.jpeg

 
J Alper said:
I like my auto level on my toy hauler,  does anyone miss that with a Class C, also i see some Class C are now 4x4,  is it worth the price, 
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Had the dealer add it before I took delivery in September. I knew going down to a Class C, I was going to have to have it added on but it was a must have in our book. 

 
wapawekka said:
I recently bought a 2022 Jayco Redhawk 31F. It’s there largest class C that isn’t a Super C. It comes in right at 32 ft long. It has the new Ford 7.3 in it and has a tow capacity of 7500lbs. I tow a 20ft enclosed with a 4 seat RZR and 4 quads. Right around 6,400 lbs and it tows great. Takes a bit to get up to speed but once you’re there, it does well. 
 

Only picture I have of the set up. 
View attachment 27749
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I'll bet the sheer size of that thing helps with stability - I imagine they had to beef up the suspension to handle that weight - good to hear what everyone is saying about the 7.3  is true ... If you have 16" tires,  I would watch your tire pressure and tire heat very carefully.  I did not have tire issues for 10,000 miles then it was every 10,000 on new tires  I even tried the Michelins  which were the best rated.

 
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