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URCLEVER

URCLEVER

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So I have been thinking about my build, coming forward. Is a v nose better than traditional? Tow differently? 3 axles vs 2 axles? I am trying make sure I do this 1 time.  Anything I may want to definitely have.

I went 22ft stacker 106 wide

belly lift

100 gal water

100 gal fuel

front cabinets with built in tool box

110v and 4 receptacles

loft up front

Led Lights

generator box for portable to stay in.

 
I think Vnose is better for the motorhomes depending on tongue length.

Kickouts for the cables, even though you're at 106", may as well get them now. I'm sure it will be more expensive to add later.

Put at least one receptacle outside.

Stabilizer jacks, I'd just get the cheap manual ones, the electric ones seem to pop the breakers easily.

Skylights

Solar

Electric tongue jack

 
AlpineFunco said:
I think Vnose is better for the motorhomes depending on tongue length.

Kickouts for the cables, even though you're at 106", may as well get them now. I'm sure it will be more expensive to add later.

Put at least one receptacle outside.

Stabilizer jacks, I'd just get the cheap manual ones, the electric ones seem to pop the breakers easily.

Skylights

Solar

Electric tongue jack
Click to expand...
What are kickout for cables?

Definitely a plug outside. And jacks is a good idea.

Solar is a good idea

Already has electric jack

Thank you.

 
The kick outs are sliding pins that the wires attach to at the door. It’ll allow the wires to push out a few inches.

Also, for the generator compartment I’d see about a rack that slides out so you just have to slide it out and start it, no lifting in and out of the compartment.

 
AlpineFunco said:
The kick outs are sliding pins that the wires attach to at the door. It’ll allow the wires to push out a few inches.

Also, for the generator compartment I’d see about a rack that slides out so you just have to slide it out and start it, no lifting in and out of the compartment.
Click to expand...
Do you happen to have a picture of these?

 
@AlpineFunco

AlpineFunco said:
The kick outs are sliding pins that the wires attach to at the door. It’ll allow the wires to push out a few inches.

Also, for the generator compartment I’d see about a rack that slides out so you just have to slide it out and start it, no lifting in and out of the compartment.
Click to expand...
I searched everywhere for Trailer Ramp door Kick outs.  Can not find them.  Can you post a link please.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
AlpineFunco said:
The kick outs are sliding pins that the wires attach to at the door. It’ll allow the wires to push out a few inches.

Also, for the generator compartment I’d see about a rack that slides out so you just have to slide it out and start it, no lifting in and out of the compartment.
Click to expand...
my older progressive trailer had them.  Most stackers use a winch for the rear door now so No cables.    Where the cables attach to the side of the ramp and the pins move outwards so you have more clearance to move you toys in. 

I was told by Intech trailers that the V nose towed strange and not as well as a flat front.  Anyone here have experience with that?

 
Squatcher said:
my older progressive trailer had them.  Most stackers use a winch for the rear door now so No cables.    Where the cables attach to the side of the ramp and the pins move outwards so you have more clearance to move you toys in. 

I was told by Intech trailers that the V nose towed strange and not as well as a flat front.  Anyone here have experience with that?
Click to expand...
I never have, I tow a 26’ V nose with my F450 with 2 Funco’s inside and I’ve never noticed anything strange.

DC25B4ED-259D-4738-A771-6E4474F23C51.jpeg

 
Winch up front for pulling the car in. Winch in rear for ramp door (ditch the springs / cables) all together. 
 

only thing I never like about the triple axles, is depending on you buggy wheelbase... the front or rear tires of the buggy will have to stay up on fender wells. This may not be a problem @ 106 wide depending on the buggy... or if you load buggy on lift, and SxS below... won’t be an issue. But if I were going 22’, I’d just go 2 axles spread / split. 
 

small sink on workbench. Long hose for fuel station (mounted passenger side)

 
EmpirE231 said:
Winch up front for pulling the car in. Winch in rear for ramp door (ditch the springs / cables) all together. 
 

only thing I never like about the triple axles, is depending on you buggy wheelbase... the front or rear tires of the buggy will have to stay up on fender wells. This may not be a problem @ 106 wide depending on the buggy... or if you load buggy on lift, and SxS below... won’t be an issue. But if I were going 22’, I’d just go 2 axles spread / split. 
 

small sink on workbench. Long hose for fuel station (mounted passenger side)
Click to expand...
When I ask both MFg they said towing 2 cars or sxs would be too much weight for 2 axles. hence why they are doing triple. I would much rather do double, especially due to space behind wheels wells. 

 
URCLEVER said:
When I ask both MFg they said towing 2 cars or sxs would be too much weight for 2 axles. hence why they are doing triple. I would much rather do double, especially due to space behind wheels wells. 
Click to expand...
you can get 8k axles which have way bigger brakes and bearings.  Not sure if 16k would be enough but on a 22ft it might.  I am hoping to be at 18k on a 28ft. 

 
So does anyone else use their stackers for other things than sand toys?

In the off season -I am going to quite a bit of car shows and events and was thinking If I should figure out if i can put my cars in it with a belly lift or have additional racks to install for these cars? Any ideas or suggestions.

 
Something I didn’t think about until it was almost too late was the dimension of the wheel well to the back door. A Gen 4 to a new Funco is more than 1’ longer. My new Funco fit width wise but would require putting on skinnies to get it all the way in (my old stacker). In my case it worked out, but error on the large side especially as the other person said triples really cut that dimension down. I suspect you need a 24 or 25’ instead, unless you don’t mind changing the tires or an older school rail that is shorter. 

 
BUFF said:
I do not think you can fit that amount amount of water & fuel in a 22' trailer. Most builders these days can't make it calc.
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I have seen it prior, but the trailer builders these days are so back logged and may not have everything calculated. I am more interested in if I can use my stacker for the show the lowriders and hot rods too.

 
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