Sport trailer facelift

Pennywise

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So I bought this trailer for $7500, I knew it was rough but still seemed like a good deal. After all Sport Trailers are one of the better trailers out there. I never thought to measure the rear door and it turns out to be only 89" I need 96". So I figured I could sell it as is or clean it up & clean it up seemed like a better idea. So I did the following:

1. Removed the plywood on the door and the front and rear sheet

2. Install new 1/2" Baltic birch on the door & 3/4" on the floor (under coated prior to install.

3. Removed the roof, vents and all the plywood

4. Install new 1/2" Baltic birch plywood to the roof

5. (2) coats of primer & (3) coats of enamel white paint to the interior

6. Had new 15 year rubber roof installed with new vents and all lap sealed

7. Installed an epoxy flake floor (I'm not a fan even though I own an epoxy floor company so I added a base layer of Urethane cement before the epoxy) 

8. Installed some non-slip sport court paint on the ramp door (3 coats)

It came out pretty nice, waiting on a new counter top and it'll be ready to list for sale.   

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can you explain number 7 more in depth please, your floor looks awesome

 
can you explain number 7 more in depth please, your floor looks awesome
Epoxy is not very flexible and works really well over a hard surface like concrete & steel. On softer surface like plywood it’s not ideal. In a trailer flexing & twisting it’s even less ideal. The flakes in the coating are going to hide some of the cracks but I think over time you would see some failure at the seams. I had some areas to patch and decided to base coat using “urethane cement” it’s a blend of polyurethane resin, silica sand and Portland cement. The polyurethane is more flexible & should help mitigate some flex. This is the first trailer I have used it in, all my other trailers had rubber coil flooring. 

 
Epoxy is not very flexible and works really well over a hard surface like concrete & steel. On softer surface like plywood it’s not ideal. In a trailer flexing & twisting it’s even less ideal. The flakes in the coating are going to hide some of the cracks but I think over time you would see some failure at the seams. I had some areas to patch and decided to base coat using “urethane cement” it’s a blend of polyurethane resin, silica sand and Portland cement. The polyurethane is more flexible & should help mitigate some flex. This is the first trailer I have used it in, all my other trailers had rubber coil flooring. 
thanks for the explanation, i hadn't heard of the UC, is that a premix or something you do yourself

 
thanks for the explanation, i hadn't heard of the UC, is that a premix or something you do yourself
We buy a brand from Kretus they call it UPC (Urethane Polymer Cement) but there are a lot of manufactures that sell it. It exotherms really quickly so you have to mix it and get it out of the bucket quick. We use it a lot for industrial floors and floors that are really damaged as a base coat. 

 
Came out awesome, great restoration. Crazy how enclosed trailers keep their value, still look good, etc no matter how beat they seem to get.

 
Came out awesome, great restoration. Crazy how enclosed trailers keep their value, still look good, etc no matter how beat they seem to get.
this is no lie, i bought a 97 pace 24' enclosed race car trailer last year. side door, driver door, ac, 6k axles, replaced floor, epoxied it, and sold it 2 weeks ago for 8500 to the first guy that messaged me and showed up. i opened the door, he said here's 8500. I said you want to see the outside (it was in storage), he said i guess, pulled it out, handed me the cash again, ok i'll take it. hooked it up and drove off. and I was thinking i'll prob have to come down on this lol.

 
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