Sand Rail Repair

richard h

richard h

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So, I got this to repair today. YIKES! Lots of dead tubes. Hopefully it will be a little better when I'm done. Did some serious looking and discussion and think a plan came together. Going to require some panel modification though as more tubes are to be added.

Like doing this stuff and it is for a friend, so I don't charge for anything except materials.

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Further investigation I find that the suspension mounting tube is 095 wall material. The dip under the balancer area was a separate tube that was butt welded in. The opposite side from this break has a gusset but not on the broken side. The missing area is the curve that comes up to the butt weld, on each side.

Idea is too fab this tube without butt welds, one continuous bent tube, also, heavier material.  

 
So today I took care of left lower rail at pivot cross tube location. Thought it was odd place to splice a tube but found it was a crack repair. Also found it was cracked inside of pivot tube. Will add outside brace to bolt mount later. Right side had been done prior.

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Love it! Nice to know I'm not the only one cutting, grinding, welding for pure pleasure. It's a different kind of love hahaaa. 

 
im just a garage hack but with all that heat you added while welding the clam shell over the butt weld you just made it a weak spot at the ends of the fix.  But it may get a few miles before it has an issue.  With something like that i would try and talk him into buying a pile of tubing for  you to just copy the chassis in the correct materials. 

 
megadesertdiesel said:
im just a garage hack but with all that heat you added while welding the clam shell over the butt weld you just made it a weak spot at the ends of the fix.  But it may get a few miles before it has an issue.  With something like that i would try and talk him into buying a pile of tubing for  you to just copy the chassis in the correct materials. 
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Well, I hope it won't fail. I have done this several times and so far, none have failed. I wouldn't be the person to do a full frame, not in my dna. Try to limit heat in welded areas by doing small sections at a time.

 
richard h said:
Well, I hope it won't fail. I have done this several times and so far, none have failed. I wouldn't be the person to do a full frame, not in my dna. Try to limit heat in welded areas by doing small sections at a time.
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Fish mouth or plate the ends (concave in or out) to give the transition a chance.  If you're going to leave that double shear mount for the trailing arm, plate it top and bottom to spread the load to the cross tube better, and put some kickers with plate on the cross tube going back to the side tube as well.  That outer trailing arm mount sees a lot of abuse, so whatever you can do to beef it will pay out in the end.

Since you're sleeving the tube and cut out the cross tube, why not just cut the existing side tube completely out and build it out of 1.75" with rosettes onto the stock frame rather than sleeve?

That's a lot of motor for that chassis, the extra pounds won't hurt. :biggrin:

 
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Rockwood said:
Am I the only one partially turning my head away from the screen while cringing? :biggrin:
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10 ton chain, 20,000 lbs, and hooks. Only failure will be if jack stops pumping. That is 120 wall and it is only a 5 ton jack. All 70-80 chevy trucks all developed a curve when hit in the front. This is what we did to fix, only bigger jack (dozer) and more chain.

Add, the piece between the jack and tube, it's a end of a single leaf spring and cut for pulling on frame machines. I have maxed out a couple of times pulling on these and they are the best.

 
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So got the old tube out and I did get the new one in. It was a challenge and don't ask, I'm not telling.

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richard h said:
10 ton chain, 20,000 lbs, and hooks. Only failure will be if jack stops pumping. That is 120 wall and it is only a 5 ton jack. All 70-80 chevy trucks all developed a curve when hit in the front. This is what we did to fix, only bigger jack (dozer) and more chain.

Add, the piece between the jack and tube, it's an end of a single leaf spring and cut for pulling on frame machines. I have maxed out a couple of times pulling on these and they are the best.
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Anything keeping the round tube from slipping off and smacking your teefs? :biggrin:

 
Damn, I would want a six foot bar on that jack. :bangin:

 
Rockwood said:
Anything keeping the round tube from slipping off and smacking your teefs? :biggrin:
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If it were to slip all it would do is fall on the table. No just the pressure holds it. Now if the chain broke, look out. Best to have tested and know what your chains can handle.

 
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When one of my plans comes together this smoothly, I start to get hesitant. Everything is fitting as planned. Only minor change is the front of motor had to raise 1/8 inch. But even this helps with other items fitting back in.

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