RZR Pro R wheel offsets

madweazl

madweazl

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Bought a '24 Pro R yesterday and I need to grab paddles/wheels for Glamis. Planning on running 32 Blackbirds rear with 32 Leed Screws front.
 



What offsets do I need front and rear?
 



Is there a preferred manufacturer of beadlock wheels when it comes to a sand setup?

 
You can run either a 7" (5+2) or 8" (4+4) front wheel.  Rear either 10" (5+5) or 11" (5.5+5.5).

Don't need beadlocks.   Method griplock wheels are reasonably prices.   If you want to spend some coin Packard, Price Design, or OMF.  

 
Exactly what Sand Shark said.. Also MW if you come up too sand show plenty of sand tires there for sale

 
Sand Shark said:
You can run either a 7" (5+2) or 8" (4+4) front wheel.  Rear either 10" (5+5) or 11" (5.5+5.5).

Don't need beadlocks.   Method griplock wheels are reasonably prices.   If you want to spend some coin Packard, Price Design, or OMF.  
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Really wish I hadn't seen the OMF FL1 now...

 
im running OMF billet center beadlocks 15x10 (5+5) and 15x8)4+4).  I personally would only run beadlocks for peace of mind, remember these new cars are very heavy and when throwing them around they have alot of force on that wheel bead.  But i like to slide the car around and have fun.  I really like the 33" Packard sand tires, they are more square rear tire.  

Just watch out for front offset and try to keep it no more than 4+4, even less offset would be better.  My car will bottom out the front end on big hits and i think its due to the wide stance and more leverage.  

another recommendation would be to buy springs now and install them, my springs went out at 400 miles with most people having the same issue.  

 
megadesertdiesel said:
im running OMF billet center beadlocks 15x10 (5+5) and 15x8)4+4).  I personally would only run beadlocks for peace of mind, remember these new cars are very heavy and when throwing them around they have alot of force on that wheel bead.  But i like to slide the car around and have fun.  I really like the 33" Packard sand tires, they are more square rear tire.  

Just watch out for front offset and try to keep it no more than 4+4, even less offset would be better.  My car will bottom out the front end on big hits and i think its due to the wide stance and more leverage.  

another recommendation would be to buy springs now and install them, my springs went out at 400 miles with most people having the same issue.  
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Once I started running beadlocks on the quad I never went back; the peace of mind was well worth the cost. As for springs, we're already working out a trip to MTS for some suspension bits/tuning :)

 
madweazl said:
Once I started running beadlocks on the quad I never went back; the peace of mind was well worth the cost. As for springs, we're already working out a trip to MTS for some suspension bits/tuning :)
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off to a good start.  I have the Bikeman tune, bored throttle body and clutchkit.  Ill end up with their cams one of these days.  I really love this car, 10x better than my X3.  Well built and doesnt need much to keep it going and reliable. 

 
megadesertdiesel said:
off to a good start.  I have the Bikeman tune, bored throttle body and clutchkit.  Ill end up with their cams one of these days.  I really love this car, 10x better than my X3.  Well built and doesnt need much to keep it going and reliable. 
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Did those items make a significant difference? 

 
Offsets mentioned are good - Tires wise so many to choose from

IMO  STU top of the food chain and priced that way, but we sell them and people are happy, Sandcraft and  most others like that are all about the same, Tensoe because they are owned by Method and Tensors are on so many race cars now they seem to work really well.

Wheels wise I am a bit biased because I sell them, But the best buy in performance, safety and price is Method,  OMFs are also Super nice but require a bit of maintenance to clean up and cost $$

Method does some nice loaded packages with tires mounted. ready to go  - that saves money and time.   Beadgrip is 90%+  as good as a Beadlock and they are lighter which is easier on the drivetrain, but not easy to de-bead and install, for me its beadlocks  still ...

The Method 401 is the standard, the new 415 is very nice and they do a Tensor SS 33 Paddle for the rear which is priced right, super light and works well

thats the go-to now for the people we service in the San Diego area. The Tensor 33 has just enough slip to make it fun and safe  - the new 35 that is coming out from them is light and will be great a Pro R with a tune I think its going to be the best built in that series 

As some people said the key is matching the wheel / tire combo to the clutch for best performance and belt saving... the lighter the wheel tire combo the easier it is on the CV's, axles, clutch etc. Pro R's are pretty strong  but lighter is better in this case. 

Clutching is kinda an art I am learning - a good clutch tune makes all the difference.  I work with so many shops now for UTV's  and I can see huge difference in the sand tuned vs untuned  FWIW 

 
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You might ask your dealer where you bought your car if they'll give you a smoking discount on a tire and wheel package. I did at FBC when I bought my x3 and saved big time $!!. I went with method 406 and tensor ss.

 
As far as paddles there are some good choices available.

Mega and a few others in our group run the Packard tires and they all love them.   We have a few that run the Tensors and they like them, but not as much performance as the Packard tires.    

 
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