"pull type" clutch issue

[Okie]

I swapped to a Subaru 6 speed transaxle in my mid engine buggy. I used the stock clutch and slave cylinder. It pulled the throw out bearing apart after a short run. Does anyone here have experience or knowledge of a pull type clutch? I have studied this on the bench and cannot really understand how it works. I checked the travel at the clutch fork when I built this, and it didn't seem to move very far, but appears to have over travelled. (But it could have also been junk when I installed it)It looks like after the bearing failed, it allowed the slave cylinder to blow itself apart. I do have a travel stop on my pedal. I still use the old Neal master cylinder and pedal assembly. I am all for updating if anyone has a suggestion, such as a different bore size, etc. 

 

[azyxzer]

Until they went automatic, all big semi trucks had pull-type clutches for just about forever (at least back to the late 1950's). They also had a clutch brake so that you could get the non-synchro tranny into gear. They had two separate adjustments, a ring in the clutch pressure plate itself and also the linkage, so that you could get a bit of clearance on the fork when the pedal was released and also the proper squeeze on the clutch brake in the last inch of pedal travel. I did not know any cars used a pull-type clutch, but my guess is that you may have over-traveled and bottomed out the (movable) pressure plate shoe on the frame of the pressure plate by pulling it back too far and overcome the strength of the snap ring that looks like it used to be on the release bearing (especially since you mentioned that it is a stock pressure plate, not excessive spring force). 1

I would recommend using the pedal stop to limit the travel to just enough to disengage the clutch to be able to get it in gear smoothly without grinding. Judging by the picture you look to have quite a bit of pedal travel as it stands. If you have a bigger bore master cylinder than stock and/or more master cylinder rod travel it could be causing you problems. Depending upon how the pedal feels, you may also want to go to a smaller bore master cylinder to get reduced pedal pressure and a little more pedal travel to make it easier to get the stop set correctly.

 

[Okie]

The more research I do, I realize the ring that you pointed out is a weak link. And I think I damaged it by separating the assembly wrong when I first got it. (Used) I found a one piece ring that is made to fix the problem. (Made by Advanced Clutch Technology) And I ordered a new aftermarket 6 puck clutch assembly and lightened flywheel. There are several cars that use a pull type. For instance, the Saab, Rx7, Subaru 6 speed. I also learned that the pivot point on the pressure plate fingers is just in a different position, making it release the opposite of a push style. I am also replacing the master cylinder with a 3/4" bore from Speedway, while it is apart.

 

[J Alper]

what year trans, this is what i found on google 

 

[J Alper]

OS Giken Push TO Pull Movement Conversion Kit FOR SUBARU GDB 6 SPEED | eBay

 

[Okie]

I think mine was listed as an 05-2016 Legacy Spec B, so it is different than the one in the ad you linked. I had never seen that before, but the 6 speed is new to me. I definitely don't need anything above 3rd, but the case is definitely stronger than the 5mt. My buggy is light with low hp, so I try to keep things as simple and stock as possible. But everything I build is "trial and error"!!! This is how I modified my shifter, removed the center diff, and locked the shafts.(pics)