Polaris RS1 Owners

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Looking to buy/trade/swap a set of aftermarket an arms and trailing arms for an rs1 as I don't see too many manufacturers out there making them. I want to keep it stock width so no long travel. 
 

Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. 
 

Also, I have a lot of stock parts looking to get rid of with only 100 miles on them (axles, trailing arms, a arms, radius rods, etc) if anyone with an rs1 is looking for any. 
 

Thanks for your input. 

 
If memory serves me correctly the RS1 stuff will fit on the other Polaris models.

@megadesertdiesel had a RS1 and might know for sure.  

 
Yeah trailing arms and upper a arm usually the same. But lower trailing arm is different than most xp1000 kits and won't fit.  Still searching so appreciate the input. 👍

 
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been thinking about getting 2 RS1's instead of the one SxS we have, so I don't have to here  :ol:  and just cruz the way I like  :dunerdude:

 
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stock arms hold  up ok, yes i believe the lower front arms mount differently than the two seat cars.  

I tell you the RS1 is a hidden gem that most look at like its a kids toy.  I loved the RS1 i had, could not get the car to lean in corners it just drifted, was  a blast in the sand until you are flat footed trying to catch up on a big boy fast ride.  

 
Building it to race in the desert. Keeping it stock width and want to beef the a arms and trailing arms. Have a couple different options. 
 

l&w fab w arms with lsr trailing arms

2broz racing front a arms and trailing arms 

hcr racing front a arms and trailing arms 

Currently running demon axles and finished first race with them. Debating on trying rhino axles. Not all that confident in super atv stuff but alot easier to get. 

 
My nephew has been racing RS1 for years. I can ask my brother any questions you want. I know he ran Demons and Rhino and I know he has a preference but I don’t remember which one. I don’t think the axle or cv is the issue I believe the boots tear easy on one of them. I know the stock hubs don’t hold up so he runs aftermarket. He does run aftermarket arms and trailing arms but I don’t remember the brand. 

IMG_1393.png

 
What a great pic!!  If you could ask him about the axles and arms I would appreciate it.  

 
Ok so they run Holz racing a-arms and trailing arms on one car and I believe he said CSD trailing arms on the other car. He said he likes Holz trailing arms the best as they are built kicked out some which makes belt changes easier. Meaning you don’t have to remove the breather tube from the clutch cover to remove the cover.  He also said he doesn’t think they are making arms anymore. The front arms are +1 forward and this is where the axle issue comes into play. He said for some reason the Rhino axles with these arms pinches the cv boot allowing it to tear during a race. The Demon axles don’t have this issue. The other issue he said you will have over time is the drive shaft. He was taking the factory drive shafts and having them clocked and balanced at a driveline shop with upgraded u-joints from I believe Super ATV. Now the new Polaris driveshafts have changed and the parts aren’t matching up like they used to. Also, a few driveline places he went to wouldn’t touch the Polaris driveline for safety reasons so you may run into that issue as well. Let me know if you need anything else!

 
Big_Daddy_Jp said:
Ok so they run Holz racing a-arms and trailing arms on one car and I believe he said CSD trailing arms on the other car. He said he likes Holz trailing arms the best as they are built kicked out some which makes belt changes easier. Meaning you don’t have to remove the breather tube from the clutch cover to remove the cover.  He also said he doesn’t think they are making arms anymore. The front arms are +1 forward and this is where the axle issue comes into play. He said for some reason the Rhino axles with these arms pinches the cv boot allowing it to tear during a race. The Demon axles don’t have this issue. The other issue he said you will have over time is the drive shaft. He was taking the factory drive shafts and having them clocked and balanced at a driveline shop with upgraded u-joints from I believe Super ATV. Now the new Polaris driveshafts have changed and the parts aren’t matching up like they used to. Also, a few driveline places he went to wouldn’t touch the Polaris driveline for safety reasons so you may run into that issue as well. Let me know if you need anything else!
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Appreciate all of the info.  Thank you!!!

 
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