Oil and Trans Cooler Setup

[HydroPower]

Picked up a new car recently and it has an external engine oil cooler as well as a trans pump and trans cooler and i have 3 switches on the dash, one to turn on each of the functions. I just ordered everything to upgrade the car to a new Holley Term X ECU and was wondering if there was a better way to power the coolers and pump other than keeping them on a switch. Im also going to install a switch pros so wondering if i need to keep switches or put the coolers on temperature controlled switches that will turn them on automatically. 

How is everyone setting these types of features up?

 

[wesinls]

Yes - There are 4 outputs on the default system, and you can change what they do - i.e output 3 is named A/C shutdown out of the box, but you can change it to be based on temperature readings just like output 1 and 2...link to manual below and a relevant screen shot from it as well.

Assumption - Fan output 1 and 2 would be used for your radiator fans, one coming on at a cooler temp, one at a higher temp

Output 3 - could be for your oil cooler at a specified temp - you can rename it and change it to be based off of temperature

Output 4 - could be for your trans cooler at a specific temp - you can rename it and change it to be based off of temperature

These would run to relay's - grounding them or triggering them.



TABLE OF CONTENTS: (holley.com)

 

[lincster]

Some will say on thermostats, I have mine on a switch.

As soon as car starts, they come on.

Just how I do it.

 

[Whipsandshyt]

I have a trans pump it is on a regular switch and a thermo switch. Reason for that is if you just let the thermo switch control it, it will continue running and drain the battery when stop for REQUIED Hydration. Probably a way to wire it to ignition so the relay come on and off with the key then the thermo switch can turn on when temp is right?????

 

[Sean@Weddle]

We like to have the trans pump controlled by a thermoswitch so that the oil thins out a bit, and the pump doesn't have to work so hard to pull cold, thick oil, which is hard on the electric motor.

Typically, you would run a ground wire, or ignition wire through a relay that will kick on once the switch closes at proper temp. The relay would be hot wired with the ignition so it shuts down once the ignition is turned off.

https://weddleindustries.com/sites/weddleindustries.com/files/downloads/CS-INST_0.pdf

 

[Rockwood]

Your battery setup will change some of your answers.  Simplest is to slave it to the ignition, but that means those pumps are on while you're trying to start the motor, adding to electrical draw and possibly causing issues.  You can run them off of 2 relays to make it so they aren't being used while the starter is spinning.  Relay 1 would be wired standard (ignition to 85, 86 to ground, 30 to battery), but the output (87) would go to the "battery" (30) on the second relay, with the motors fed off of 87a (center pin on a 5 pin relay).  The second relay would be wired so the starter signal goes to 85, 86 to ground.  This will disable the pumps while the starter is being used.

If you used the Holley to turn it on, you can remove the first relay and output the temperature condition wire to the ground on the second relay, and run pins 30 directly to battery and pin 85 to the starter signal.  

With 2 large batteries, unless you store at Glamis and aren't the best about unplugging things, no real need for it to turn off with the starter.

 

[Kraut_n_Rice]

We like to have the trans pump controlled by a thermoswitch so that the oil thins out a bit, and the pump doesn't have to work so hard to pull cold, thick oil, which is hard on the electric motor.

Typically, you would run a ground wire, or ignition wire through a relay that will kick on once the switch closes at proper temp. The relay would be hot wired with the ignition so it shuts down once the ignition is turned off.

https://weddleindustries.com/sites/weddleindustries.com/files/downloads/CS-INST_0.pdf

The way we typically switch temp controlled items like fans and pumps is to put ignition power to 85, and ground the relay through the temp swatch on 86.  It cuts down on the wires in the circuit that will have power running back and forth through the machine.  

If you used the Holley to turn it on, you can remove the first relay and output the temperature condition wire to the ground on the second relay, and run pins 30 directly to battery and pin 85 to the starter signal.  

With 2 large batteries, unless you store at Glamis and aren't the best about unplugging things, no real need for it to turn off with the starter.

Will the Holley allow you to put conditions on the outputs?  Like, they will only function above 600 RPM?  Or a delayed "on".

 

[wesinls]

The way we typically switch temp controlled items like fans and pumps is to put ignition power to 85, and ground the relay through the temp swatch on 86.  It cuts down on the wires in the circuit that will have power running back and forth through the machine.  

Will the Holley allow you to put conditions on the outputs?  Like, they will only function above 600 RPM?  Or a delayed "on".

Yes on the holley...here's a screen shot of the software showing most of the options for the outputs based on inputs from the system...note you can then have it be a ground or a positive  - which would run to a relay..i.e, if above 600 RMP send negative signal on wire (or positive).

So for the original question, he could use CTS (coolant temperature sensor) - to send signal to turn on fan when temps are at a certain temp, and turn off when at a different temp.  Same concept for RPM - see second screenshot

 

[HydroPower]

We like to have the trans pump controlled by a thermoswitch so that the oil thins out a bit, and the pump doesn't have to work so hard to pull cold, thick oil, which is hard on the electric motor.

Typically, you would run a ground wire, or ignition wire through a relay that will kick on once the switch closes at proper temp. The relay would be hot wired with the ignition so it shuts down once the ignition is turned off.

https://weddleindustries.com/sites/weddleindustries.com/files/downloads/CS-INST_0.pdf

That info helps alot for the trans setup, didnt realize it would need 2 temp sensors. I talked to someone in your office last week about this and the recommended keeping it on a switch and operating it manually but i like the drawing you attached for the full setup. Where would you recommend installing the 150* thermoswitch in an S4D?

 

[HydroPower]

Yes on the holley...here's a screen shot of the software showing most of the options for the outputs based on inputs from the system...note you can then have it be a ground or a positive  - which would run to a relay..i.e, if above 600 RMP send negative signal on wire (or positive).

So for the original question, he could use CTS (coolant temperature sensor) - to send signal to turn on fan when temps are at a certain temp, and turn off when at a different temp.  Same concept for RPM - see second screenshot

View attachment 59334

View attachment 59335

This is exactly what I was looking for when it comes to the oil cooler, I will add the temp sensor and program it through the Holley just like this

 

[wesinls]

This is exactly what I was looking for when it comes to the oil cooler, I will add the temp sensor and program it through the Holley just like this

Good to hear - I'm pretty sure this is the video I watched when doing it for the first time...some things you can do with the little handheld, some require the laptop...changing the 3 and 4 outputs require a laptop.

 

[Sean@Weddle]

That info helps alot for the trans setup, didnt realize it would need 2 temp sensors. I talked to someone in your office last week about this and the recommended keeping it on a switch and operating it manually but i like the drawing you attached for the full setup. Where would you recommend installing the 150* thermoswitch in an S4D?

New S4D will have a 3/4"x16 fitting right next to the lower bell housing mounts, install temp switch on the driver side.

Older S4D with NPT plugs would need to install switch where fill plug is next to passenger side CV joint.

On wiring, what I meant was to run the a ground wire through the switch to the relay, or as our diagram shows, run a wire from a switched ignition source through the switch to the relay. Bottom line, don't run a "hot" wire through the temp switch. 

 

[Kraut_n_Rice]

New S4D will have a 3/4"x16 fitting right next to the lower bell housing mounts, install temp switch on the driver side.

Older S4D with NPT plugs would need to install switch where fill plug is next to passenger side CV joint.

On wiring, what I meant was to run the a ground wire through the switch to the relay, or as our diagram shows, run a wire from a switched ignition source through the switch to the relay. Bottom line, don't run a "hot" wire through the temp switch. 

By "hot" do you mean direct battery power?

Ignition power is still "hot".  So, you're kinda contradicting yourself.

 

[Kraut_n_Rice]

Here is how I would do it.

 

[Sean@Weddle]

By "hot" do you mean direct battery power?

Ignition power is still "hot".  So, you're kinda contradicting yourself.

Yes, DO NOT run battery power straight through the temp switch.

I have always told people to run the temp switch through the ground wire to the relay. Our instructions show it running through the switched power source (which I just saw the other day when someone called me about it).

 

[J Alper]

With a Term-X, they are not very good out of the box to add any sensors,  

Add the I/O expansion is the correct way to do it, 

The Terminator X has no Thermal Inputs like the HP, or Dominator, you can try the pullup resistor, but then you are still limited on outputs, 

Doing the expansion box will add its own sensor ground and sensor power via 5v or 12v even 20v, all out the same box, 

This really give you piece of mind so you dont need to monitor the functions, this will also give you data loging for the input sensors 

• Add a oil Temp sensor, then it will read and record via the holey screen or loging 
  
• Oil Temp sensor then can control a relay for the fans on the oil cooler, 
  
• Add a Trans Temp Sensor, also will be able to read trans temp or data log, 
  
• Trans Temp can run multiple relays for trans fan and a pump separate
  

Now you have enough inputs and outputs for more fun options 

I run a Air temp Sensor mounting to a tab to rea ambient air temp so you can see the intake temp differential 

I also run my shift indicator into the Holley, super easy to setup, I run it as a volt meter and give reference to gear / volt ICF, 

For more fun you can run a out side air temp sensor and have it control the heat seat relay when you hit a target air temp, 

the I/O will give you a total of 16 more options 8 inputs and 8 outputs