Most Aggressive Paddle for 15 in Wheel?

[wesinls]

In 3rd gear the car feel like it just wants to spin the tires, but not much bite.  I like to run at 14 to 15 lbs, but even when lowered to about 10 it still does it.  It almost feels like the clutch is slipping, but I'd hope not as it's only 1/2 season old, and again only does it in 3rd / 4th when I'm at higher speeds.

I haven't had to purchase new paddles for some 10 years, and it looks like Sand Tires Unlimited is our only option.

The sand blaster Pro looks to be the most aggressive tire, and from what i can find on Kartek - cut # 2 specifically...Sand Tires unlimited doesn't list info about the cuts on their site for some reason. 

Thoughts? Anyone have this tire and can share some pics?

Sand Blaster Pro 33-15 (sandtiresunlimited.com)

 

[Rockwood]

If it’s only spinning in 3rd/4th, I’d say clutch. Paddles not being aggressive enough should be the other way around.

Before you get crazy and yank the motor though, how much free play on the slave cylinder (assuming external)?

Next would be if the bell housing is fully sealed. If not, sand gets in there and fouls the clutch.

If the motor needs to be pulled: is the pilot bearing in place and correct? If there’s trans oil on the clutch, this is probably the culprit.

Beyond that, clutch too small for the power?

 

[Mac]

I bought a pair of 33x15 Sand Blaster Pro 2's from @RacecaR on here.  I really like them.  

I have them on a SU ultra light mid engine 2.5 sub/2D.

 

[Kevin]

the pro 2's have the same cup as thebig ass  sandmaster 35.5's do. def the most aggressive you can get.

 

[matt86m]

Sounds familiar, mine turned out to be the clutch

 

[Doonit]

the pro 2's have the same cup as thebig ass  sandmaster 35.5's do. def the most aggressive you can get.

Per STU, the blaster pro #1 are the same size scoop as the regular blaster #2. STU rep said they make the #1 cut on the pro the same size as the #2 regular blaster "in case" they sell/run out of the regular blaster #2 they sell the pro #1. Plus the pros say "sand blaster" on the back side of the paddle and "sand blaster pro" on the side wall lol.  

 

[wesinls]

If it’s only spinning in 3rd/4th, I’d say clutch. Paddles not being aggressive enough should be the other way around.

Before you get crazy and yank the motor though, how much free play on the slave cylinder (assuming external)?

Next would be if the bell housing is fully sealed. If not, sand gets in there and fouls the clutch.

If the motor needs to be pulled: is the pilot bearing in place and correct? If there’s trans oil on the clutch, this is probably the culprit.

Beyond that, clutch too small for the power?

Glad you asked - no play, and I had some when the car was put together...hoping this is it!

 

[RacecaR]

Per STU, the blaster pro #1 are the same size scoop as the regular blaster #2. STU rep said they make the #1 cut on the pro the same size as the #2 regular blaster "in case" they sell/run out of the regular blaster #2 they sell the pro #1. Plus the pros say "sand blaster" on the back side of the paddle and "sand blaster pro" on the side wall lol.  

This is correct, also the 33-15 Sand Blaster Pro #2 shares the same exact paddle as the 36-17 Sand Blaster #2 (not the 35.5) but on a 33” tall 15” rim tire. 
 

Complaint definitely sounds like more of a clutch issue than being correctly paddled though.

 

[Big_Daddy_Jp]

If it’s only spinning in 3rd/4th, I’d say clutch. Paddles not being aggressive enough should be the other way around.

Before you get crazy and yank the motor though, how much free play on the slave cylinder (assuming external)?

Next would be if the bell housing is fully sealed. If not, sand gets in there and fouls the clutch.

If the motor needs to be pulled: is the pilot bearing in place and correct? If there’s trans oil on the clutch, this is probably the culprit.

Beyond that, clutch too small for the power?

Everything he said. There is a greater load on the clutch in higher gears when trying to pour the coals to it. Easier to make it slip.