LS1 Block

[Snappy]

Anyone have a LS1 block they would like to get rid of?

 

[J Alper]

ls2 block will be cheaper,  going to be hard to find a good ls1 block, 

Personally they LS1 block are junk,  I would use a 5.3 block and bore it out This will get you a better windage like the LS6 and LS2 block, the 5.3 has better casting then the LS1 and LS6, Same casting as the ls2,  the 5.3 Block will give better oil control, the rear port is larger and allows better oil flow,  

 

[Spark2678]

ls2 block will be cheaper,  going to be hard to find a good ls1 block, 

Personally they LS1 block are junk,  I would use a 5.3 block and bore it out This will get you a better windage like the LS6 and LS2 block, the 5.3 has better casting then the LS1 and LS6, Same casting as the ls2,  the 5.3 Block will give better oil control, the rear port is larger and allows better oil flow,  

Love my Alper built 5.3.

 

[Fullthrottleguy]

Like @J Alper said LS1 block are not the "best" choice even if you are moving over components from and existing LS1 engine.  The L33 Aluminum 5.3 and the LS6  (same block and sleeve  - different bore) are stronger where it counts and the L33 can comfortably go to 5.7 and even .005 over.  But they are harder to find and have gone up in price lately.  Newer 5.3 Alums from GM trucks (they have DOD) are not guaranteed to go to out to 5.7 as they have some core shift, you should always sonic test them - Been there and 1 out 4 were what I would call musable.   But they are better and cheaper as most LS1's out there have lots of miles and .005 bore will not always get the cylinders round - 50% chance if you buy a used LS1  - it will be unusable as a performance engine.  The Ls6 is a great engine if you need that bore, but they are like Unicorns now.

There are a lot of LS2 blocks out there and having a 4" bore is nice because you can run heads with unshrouded valves like the popular LS3/L92 head, and even with Cathedral port LS1 heads you will see a HP gain due to the valve being farther from the side of the bore (I like catherals on LS2/LS3 for the sand - way more low end). GM did some changes to improve windage and oil  control  but its insignificant.  The sleeves are like the LS6, longer than the LS3 so they work better for strokers  but prices are nuts ....

If anyone has a reasonable LS2 block they want to sell - pm me

The LS3 has all the advantages of the LS2 (except short sleeves) and has the windage a little more figured out. New and used they cost the same as LS2's from what I have seen lately (CA) and like the LS2 the bore is over 4"   - if you are moving LS1 parts (like a stroker kit) to LS2 or LS3  - simple Piston swap (and rebalance - at least the pistons) and you have more cubes and better overall and stronger engine - all the other LS1 parts will fit 

LS7 is a good block, but now things get expensive ...

Iron blocks are cheap and plentiful in 5.3 to bore to 5.7,  and super strong, but Personally I would not want that extra 110lbs 

Some of the Junkyard on the east coast still have LS1 blocks for sale, they are old school and you have to call them- but they are aropund

 

[Poule43]

Love my Alper built 5.3.

Me Too !!!!! Great Set Up

 

[ROBERT L]

Anyone have a LS1 block they would like to get rid of?

Are you looking for one to build or to use for a mock-up build ?

 

[Lambro]

My Alper "5.3" is pretty quick

 

[Jtmoney714]

My na 5.3 made 560 to the ground. 

 

[Kraut_n_Rice]

My Alper 402 runs alright..

 

[lincster]

My buddy has a LS1 that spun a rod bearing. 
The block is fine. 
Let me know if you want me to ask him if he wants to get rid of it. 

 

[Glamisdude]

I have a ls2 block that the sleeves spun just sitting in my backyard. It would be great for mock-up purposes.