LS water pump

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bkuips

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HI All,

Water pump on my car is starting to squeel so i am going to replace it but it has the fan temp switch in one of the heater core ports and the other port is just plugged.  Does anyone make a pump that has these threaded already or am i better off buying one and tapping myself.  Can only find one that has the heater core nipples prethreaded but the reviews dont look good.  talked to the original owner and he said CBM did the water pump last so i was going to call them and find out Monday but thought that i would ask here as well.

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I have the NPT taps for those fittings if you're local to me. La Crescenta, off the 210 frwy, west of Pasadena, north of Glendale. CBM will be able to do them as well, not sure what they charge.

 
L.R.S. said:
I have the NPT taps for those fittings if you're local to me. La Crescenta, off the 210 frwy, west of Pasadena, north of Glendale. CBM will be able to do them as well, not sure what they charge.
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I appreciate it i am in north Phoenix area so i will just buy them if needed.

 
Edelbrock makes a water pump with threaded ports. Cartridge style pump that out flows stock. Quality piece IMO. 

 
Get your new pump from wherever you choose and grab the heater fittings with vice grips, clamp down on them enough to crush a bit and then twist them out. The big hole is going to use a 1/2" NPT tap while the smaller hole is going to use a 3/8" NPT tap. Use some motor oil on the appropriate tap and go 1/4 turn at a time, in and then back out again to clear the chips. When you have gone deep enough you will be able to thread a pipe plug almost all of the way in before it gets tight. Do this with the pump bolted to the engine for ease of holding it but unbolt it when you're done so you can clear all of the chips out. It's really a simple thing to do. 

You will need to know if yours uses a thermostat or not, so you can get a plug for it too.

 
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KLC said:
Get your new pump from wherever you choose and grab the heater fittings with vice grips, clamp down on them enough to crush a bit and then twist them out. The big hole is going to use a 1/2" NPT tap while the smaller hole is going to use a 3/8" NPT tap. Use some motor oil on the appropriate tap and go 1/4 turn at a time, in and then back out again to clear the chips. When you have gone deep enough you will be able to thread a pipe plug almost all of the way in before it gets tight. Do this with the pump bolted to the engine for ease of holding it but unbolt it when you're done so you can clear all of the chips out. It's really a simple thing to do. 

You will need to know if yours uses a thermostat or not, so you can get a plug for it too.
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Solid advice right here and exactly how it should be done.

 
I put the ends in the vise, I also heat it up to help relax the retaining compound they use, and start twisting the pump back and forth, the good part is you do not have to drill the holes they are the correct size to use the tap the KLC mentioned 

Redline also makes a nice thermostat delete 

 
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Good suggestion on the heat, it does help soften whatever it is that holds the pipe nipples in there.

 
Other than funky looks - i there anything wrong with using this for the heater core outlets?: Also - Can someone also post pictures of how you are drilling your thermostat? Alper?
 

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wesinls said:
Other than funky looks - i there anything wrong with using this for the heater core outlets?: Also - Can someone also post pictures of how you are drilling your thermostat? Alper?
 

View attachment 44765
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Going to run a thermostat? If so, mostly works. They can fail, however. 

 
wesinls said:
Other than funky looks - i there anything wrong with using this for the heater core outlets?: Also - Can someone also post pictures of how you are drilling your thermostat? Alper?
 

View attachment 44765
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This is a very bad idea for a offroad car, this will bypass that much water from the radiator ^^^^^

Bobalos said:
i think you will find that most folks will say no to using the bypass.  IMO, it does not make any sense.  if tapping the holes is too much of a PITA, then put caps on the nipples with clamps. 

Here is what @J Alper was talking about.

https://www.redlineperformanceinc.com/collections/cooling-system
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correct this is the easiest way to not use a thermostat, 

 
I run the redline thermostat bypass.

I have 1 outlet plugged and the other outlet is plummed back to my radiator line.

 
J Alper said:
This is a very bad idea for a offroad car, this will bypass that much water from the radiator ^^^^^

correct this is the easiest way to not use a thermostat, 
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Thanks all.  Sound like some new taps are in my future.

 
Also not a great idea to measure water temp from the pump, reroute into block for accurate reading.

 
J Alper said:
this is correct ^^^ should always be in the head
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Funny as I was just looking at this...on the LS3 crate motor there's a coolant temp sensor on the head from the factory (how my motor came) - and for my holly terminator X I have the below plug that needs to plug into that sensor...however, there's no "output" on the terminator X  to run to a mechanical temp gauge on my dash...is there some sort of a Y connector to have two outputs on this same sensor?  One for the holly - and one for my dash gauge?  

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