LS Fuel Pressure Regulators - Which One do you have?

wesinls

wesinls

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Lots of options - curious what most people are using?  Pics of your fuel line setups would be a bonus too if you have them.  Thanks!

 
Like everything else - it depends on the configuration.

Brand wise I want to have easy parts availability for repair - diaphragms fail over time 

Thats why I use Aeromotive  - Very reliable and everyone has parts - carrying a spare diaphragm just in case -

Others made in USA can be good like Fuel lab, Weldon. and Holley,  but its still hard to go wrong  with Aeromotive 

for the basic LS NA the 13105 is my go to, for SC cars and anything running bigger fuel lines the 13134 is great 

the older models like the A100 series are great, but its hard to tell if you are getting a real one. They have all been copied by China so I stay away from them now

 
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If you decide to go aeromotive, I have one, brand new in the box, it's the kit with the gauge, and maybe fittings? I don't remember but I can open the box and take pictures if your interested. 

 
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Fullthrottleguy said:
Like everything else - it depends on the configuration.

Brand wise I want to have easy parts availability for repair - diaphragms fail over time 

Thats why I use Aeromotive  - Very reliable and everyone has parts - carrying a spare diaphragm just in case -

Others made in USA can be good like Fuel lab, Weldon. and Holley,  but its still hard to go wrong  with Aeromotive 

for the basic LS NA the 13105 is my go to, for SC cars and anything running bigger fuel lines the 13134 is great 

the older models like the A100 series are great, but its hard to tell if you are getting a real one. They have all been copied by China so I stay away from them now
Click to expand...
After looking at this regulator (13105) and noticing it only has in inlet - and a return line - at first I thought it wouldnt work as I needed an inlet, outlet, and return line - but quickly learned that the regulators should be installed at the END of the fuel rail, not before, as to assure pressure it correct in the entire rail, and not before it - make perfect sense...however,

If I plan on using the stock fuel rails - that won't work and it's a closed loop.  I want to use aftermarket more or less for looks, but also seems to be a better setup given the above.  That said, what are people using on stock fuel rails?  I assume a 3 port (inlet, outlet, return) - and just accepting that's not ideal? (even though that's how they work from the factory)

 
Aeromotive, because its the most common and parts are easy to get.

 
I know I dont have an LS, But am using a Weldon in a Dead Head setup. The last one I had on the car lasted 18+ years and that was on the original Diaphragm.

Also, if you have trouble with their products you can get the owner of the company on the phone Monday-Friday. Just my 2 Cents.

 
aeromotive is what im running.

 
I use a 3 port fuel lab regulator with stock fuel rails on my LS. Its right before the rail with inlet, outlet, and return line back to tank.

 
wesinls said:
After looking at this regulator (13105) and noticing it only has in inlet - and a return line - at first I thought it wouldnt work as I needed an inlet, outlet, and return line - but quickly learned that the regulators should be installed at the END of the fuel rail, not before, as to assure pressure it correct in the entire rail, and not before it - make perfect sense...however,

If I plan on using the stock fuel rails - that won't work and it's a closed loop.  I want to use aftermarket more or less for looks, but also seems to be a better setup given the above.  That said, what are people using on stock fuel rails?  I assume a 3 port (inlet, outlet, return) - and just accepting that's not ideal? (even though that's how they work from the factory)
Click to expand...
The easiest and most common and recommended  setup is to run the outlet of the Post Pump Filter to the back of one rail, cross over the rails at the center front and  then run the regulator at the end of the second rail wit the return going back to the tank - this works for under 1000HP very well and its easy and cheap to plumb

 
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