J34A4 TBI and Haltech E6X Help Needed

Disco

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So this will be a little long, but I'm pretty stumped. I have an older SCU 4 seater with a transplanted J34A4. I'm new to cars, coming over from ATC's. I had the car for a little bit and I needed to change the air filter. While I was looking for exactly what I wanted, I stuffed a rag in the TBI. I got my new cold air set up, and installed it, but didn't take the damn rag out of the TBI. I ran it for a couple minutes with some obvious problems. I pulled the rag out and in the process, it snapped the TPS arm that goes inside of the bracket on the TBI. I replaced the TPS and it idled at about 4000 RPM. I adjusted it a couple times, with no change to the idle. I hooked the Haltech software up to the car and it asked me to reset the ECU. I did and installed the file indicated on my car and now it won't start. It feels like it's Challenged and it is shooting flame out of the exhaust on a back fire. For my low skills, I'd be looking for a distributor to advance. Anyone with any experience on this set up got a good baseline for me? I'm really at a loss and I think it'd be tough to find anyone to work on this old set up.

Thank you

 
Brian look up kraut n rice on the boards here he is the honda guru.

 
I believe there might be a relearn procedure for this but Brandon would have to confirm. 

 
I don't really know anything about Haltech.

Show us a pic of you throttle body.  Can't really picture what you're talking about..

 
I’ll have to get a picture later. The car is stored in Arizona and I’m in California. Where the TPS bolts onto the throttle body, there is a piece that rotates with the butterfly. It has a slot in it that the tps hooks into. I think in pilling the rag out it may have changes the position this slot is in relation to the TPS. So I may have multiple problems. 

 
The TPS on a Honda J series Tbody isn't typically replaceable.  You can drill out the rivets, tap the housing, and install later Civic unit though.

 
The TPS on a Honda J series Tbody isn't typically replaceable.  You can drill out the rivets, tap the housing, and install later Civic unit though.
Curious, what would be the gain in replacing with the civic TPS? Mine has been drilled and changed from a previous owner, are those adjusted by using an ohmmeter? Thanks Brandon, hope you had a nice Thanksgiving.

 
So this will be a little long, but I'm pretty stumped. I have an older SCU 4 seater with a transplanted J34A4. I'm new to cars, coming over from ATC's. I had the car for a little bit and I needed to change the air filter. While I was looking for exactly what I wanted, I stuffed a rag in the TBI. I got my new cold air set up, and installed it, but didn't take the damn rag out of the TBI. I ran it for a couple minutes with some obvious problems. I pulled the rag out and in the process, it snapped the TPS arm that goes inside of the bracket on the TBI. I replaced the TPS and it idled at about 4000 RPM. I adjusted it a couple times, with no change to the idle. I hooked the Haltech software up to the car and it asked me to reset the ECU. I did and installed the file indicated on my car and now it won't start. It feels like it's Challenged and it is shooting flame out of the exhaust on a back fire. For my low skills, I'd be looking for a distributor to advance. Anyone with any experience on this set up got a good baseline for me? I'm really at a loss and I think it'd be tough to find anyone to work on this old set up.

Thank you
I dont know crap about a HallTech, but the highlighted portion above indicates to me that there is a setting or configuration that needs to get done in the ECM that you "erased" with the "reset". 

 
Curious, what would be the gain in replacing with the civic TPS? Mine has been drilled and changed from a previous owner, are those adjusted by using an ohmmeter? Thanks Brandon, hope you had a nice Thanksgiving.
No gain.  Just the J series throttle body is riveted, and not typically listed as a replaceable part.  The Civic part is the same, it's just bolted on in that application.

If you break the on on a J series, your options are either replace the t-body, or drill/tap and install a Civic unit.

 
No gain.  Just the J series throttle body is riveted, and not typically listed as a replaceable part.  The Civic part is the same, it's just bolted on in that application.

If you break the on on a J series, your options are either replace the t-body, or drill/tap and install a Civic unit.
Cool, thanks!! How critical is the adjustment? 

 
Cool, thanks!! How critical is the adjustment? 
Pretty critical.  You would need to have a scan tool to be able to see the voltage, adjust and lock down.  I don't know specifically what it is off the top of my head..

But, you might be able to find in in some diagnostic tree somewhere online...

ETA..it will sometimes be represented by a percentage also.  7% @ closed throttle comes to mind.

 
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I did a lot of research on the TPS setting. You're looking for 0.5v at idle and 4.5v at WOT (Vehicle should not be running for this). I know this because I removed mine not realizing it had to be adjusted properly. It's a PITA for sure.

Find the power feed line with a voltage meter. Then the ground. The third wire is the signal. Thats what you connect the positive line of the voltage meter to. Ground the black line of the Voltage Meter. Loosen the screws and adjust until you get the correct voltage for Idle and WOT. 

Mine must have been drilled/tapped already because I had a couple of phillips head screws holding mine in. I did speak with Tim at Xact Dyno and he was going to reset my TPS in the computer when he has it for Dyno. 

 
I did a lot of research on the TPS setting. You're looking for 0.5v at idle and 4.5v at WOT (Vehicle should not be running for this). I know this because I removed mine not realizing it had to be adjusted properly. It's a PITA for sure.

Find the power feed line with a voltage meter. Then the ground. The third wire is the signal. Thats what you connect the positive line of the voltage meter to. Ground the black line of the Voltage Meter. Loosen the screws and adjust until you get the correct voltage for Idle and WOT. 

Mine must have been drilled/tapped already because I had a couple of phillips head screws holding mine in. I did speak with Tim at Xact Dyno and he was going to reset my TPS in the computer when he has it for Dyno. 
This is where you would use your scan tool.

 
My TPS range was .45V @ idle and 4.47V @ WOT measured with a scan tool

 
No gain.  Just the J series throttle body is riveted, and not typically listed as a replaceable part.  The Civic part is the same, it's just bolted on in that application.

If you break the on on a J series, your options are either replace the t-body, or drill/tap and install a Civic unit.
The rivets holding the TPS on to the throttle body are actually break away screws.  If you are careful when removing the top part of the screw you can back them out and just use new screws to hold in a new TPS.  I had to do this on my car.

 
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