Electrical questions

[EastMT]

Currently my buss bars, relays, and circuit breakers are mounted behind the passenger seat which has to be removed to do anything besides change a relay. I would like to move all the electrical components to the front of the car mounted in a weather proof enclosure for easier access should I have a problem while at the dunes.

Does anyone have a picture of how they positioned the buss bars, relays, circuit breakers or fuses on their panel or enclosure? I remember seeing a great picture on this forum but I can't it. I'm looking for ideas so mine looks professionally done.

Any opinions on circuit breakers vs fuses?

Thanks

 

[Bobalos]

when I rewired my VeeWee I started out by drawing out each circuit, then I combined them into one drawing.  I bought switches & wire based on current draw & wired it up myself.  Kind of redneck, but I used household conduit to route all of my wiring to the back of the car.  no-one even saw it in the car until I pointed it out to them.

I bought the highest current switches I could find & kept the current below 1/2 the ratings of the switches so I did not have to put in any relays.  I like fuses, they are just too robust & almost cant fail or lie to you.  I see the benefit to CB's though....

I wanted to keep it looking old school so I went with a super simple "dash". 

if you look closely you will see the conduit coming out of the side of the box, going to the right, then down & back to the rear of the car. 

And....... the last switch in the panel, is a spare.  it is fed from a 20 Amp fuse & is wired to the back of the car.  so......... if I wanted to update or add anything it was already wired in, all I had to do was connect to it & go.  Or if in an emergency I needed to bypass something in the car, It was there. 

 

[Travelah]

Here’s a few photos of setups I’ve done…

Why not go with a pdm like switch-pros if you are re-wiring the car? Could probably intercept everything under your back seat and wouldn’t require any serviceable fuses or relays.

I prefer breakers over fuses. You can get auto reset or manual reset ones. Remember atc standard fuse terminals are usually only rated for about 25 amps max. Not sure why they make 30 and 40 amp atc fuses. They will melt the enclosures if running enough amps through it.

 

[EastMT]

when I rewired my VeeWee I started out by drawing out each circuit, then I combined them into one drawing.  I bought switches & wire based on current draw & wired it up myself.  Kind of redneck, but I used household conduit to route all of my wiring to the back of the car.  no-one even saw it in the car until I pointed it out to them.

I bought the highest current switches I could find & kept the current below 1/2 the ratings of the switches so I did not have to put in any relays.  I like fuses, they are just too robust & almost cant fail or lie to you.  I see the benefit to CB's though....

I wanted to keep it looking old school so I went with a super simple "dash". 

if you look closely you will see the conduit coming out of the side of the box, going to the right, then down & back to the rear of the car. 

And....... the last switch in the panel, is a spare.  it is fed from a 20 Amp fuse & is wired to the back of the car.  so......... if I wanted to update or add anything it was already wired in, all I had to do was connect to it & go.  Or if in an emergency I needed to bypass something in the car, It was there. 

View attachment 109123

View attachment 109124

View attachment 109121

Thanks for the ideas and pictures. Will consider the switches.

 

[EastMT]

Here’s a few photos of setups I’ve done…

Why not go with a pdm like switch-pros if you are re-wiring the car? Could probably intercept everything under your back seat and wouldn’t require any serviceable fuses or relays.

I prefer breakers over fuses. You can get auto reset or manual reset ones. Remember atc standard fuse terminals are usually only rated for about 25 amps max. Not sure why they make 30 and 40 amp atc fuses. They will melt the enclosures if running enough amps through it.

View attachment 109159

View attachment 109160

View attachment 109161

View attachment 109162

That looks like a very clean install! Will look into a switch unit or switch pro. What brand of the mesh wire protector did you use or do you like? Are those weatherproof relay sockets/covers?

 

[FENDERFAB]

i agree with the above, just use the switch pros or other type of PDM system.

Technology has come a long way and systems are much simplified compared to what they used to be.  No need to deal with tons of wires and breakers/fuses etc.  Just get an all in one unit and intercept your existing wiring and call it a day. 

 

[Travelah]

That looks like a very clean install! Will look into a switch unit or switch pro. What brand of the mesh wire protector did you use or do you like? Are those weatherproof relay sockets/covers?

I used to use the cheap expandable braid loom off amazon, it doesn't offer much abrasion resistance and have since switched to tech-flex clean cut. It seems much more durable and the ends don't fray as easily (burning the ends lightly after cutting helps). They have stronger and higher heat rated coverings too. If you want the best covering Raychem dr-25 heat shrink is the way to go. Most of the relays in the pics are Prowire 'sealed relay kit'.

 

[EastMT]

I used to use the cheap expandable braid loom off amazon, it doesn't offer much abrasion resistance and have since switched to tech-flex clean cut. It seems much more durable and the ends don't fray as easily (burning the ends lightly after cutting helps). They have stronger and higher heat rated coverings too. If you want the best covering Raychem dr-25 heat shrink is the way to go. Most of the relays in the pics are Prowire 'sealed relay kit'.

Thanks!