Dry sump question???

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Whipsandshyt

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Thinking about doing a Dailey dry sump on a new motor. Can I add an extra stage to the pump and circulate trans oil with it? Is this even a good idea?

Thinking about it now would this mean the oil is circulating all the time? 

Jeff

 
Yes you can run a pump for the Trans, They do power steering pumps, and pumps for the torque converter, 

The dry sump was the best thing i did, does not build oil temp like a wet sump, the motor feels super snappy, when i do stop, the oil cools down in minutes,  on Richie Rich's motor i did last month, i used a Aviad Dry sump, the pump from them was about $1200 and pan was $400,  pulley and pulley guard with belt was around $200,  ATI balancer is $250-$500,  balancer if you have a ATI, then will only need the hub, I did pushlock with covers i was in the plumbing $700 then did a Kartek remote oil filter $150, Got my Petersons tank for $650 on Ebay,  the Petersons are OK not a lot of side baffles, added wall baffles with aluminum and a rivet gun,  

So i spent around $4000 all in,

 
Ok not to hi jack but I got some questions also. I have a Dailey dry sump set up on a twin turbo 416. I have the extra savage section for the turbos. Me question is how are most people venting the engine and tank. I currently have a -12 from the valve cover going to one of the return bungs on the oil tank. The other is a - 16 from the pump. Then a -16 from the vent on the tank to the back of the car. What are other folks doing to vent the system or is this the norm. 

 
Like JAlper says Dry sump is the way to go if you have the room for tank, remote filter, and catch can/Breather.  The Dailey with a 4 stage pump ( thats the extra stage for the trans)  will be just at $4500- 4800  with everything  (tank, fliter  cooler etc) depending on the hose and fittings (I would go  a Pro hose the PTFE personally)  the Aviad is a way cheaper deal. although maybe not a s clean.  If you get a billet or cast pan  rather than Fabricated its always better in the sand (no stress cracking) 

I also used the Dailey and its rock solid - just don't knock the belt off ... and always run a low OP kill switch with a dry sump (good for every engine)  because if the belt comes off / break you go to Zero oil pressure  in milliseconds

The only issue pumping trans fluis is you really want to bypass the pump (with a thermostat in line) until the fluid heats to 150 degrees at least - most of us run 250wt  or at least 90-180wt (Maxima)  and pumping that cold puts a huge strain on the belt  (and pump).  You want to tell Dailey what you pumping when you order so he can tune for that fluid it will reduce the strain and also make sure you are not sucking to much to cavitate the pump  - thats a bad thing. Or too little and or get enough flow - also bad.  

 I  am using  the 1.5" wide belt  now after seeing how much the 1" belt stretches and how much the pulley on the pump wears in the sand.  I just sent a pump back to Dailey on an engine I am rebuilding  to have the pump rebuilt, and Bill swapped the pulley and it was amazing how worn it was in a couple seasons pretty hard use, One more season ands it would have either slipped or come off - either no bueno   - sand wears everything  ...

If you are buying new - make sure you give Dailey all the info they ask for accurately  - each pump is custom tuned for the application. If used  send it in and make sure its tuned for your needs - huge variations in oil pressure etc. 

Regarding venting  having a talk with Dailey that have some strict rules they like followed - some engine and car builder do opposite - seems to really piss Dailey off 😫

The recommended way is to come off the tank vent into an oil separator with a filtered vent  (catch can) and back into the tank - you have to vent both valve covers on an SC or Turbo car  because you will get a lot of crankcase blow by and with LS's and stroker cranks and pan rail block design you will get windage  which won't affect the oil like a wet sump  but it will be positive pressure in the crank case and often will push oil past the front and rear main seals and other gaskets when the engine get hot ands especially when it gets some miles on it ...

 
I like the belt idea with the wider belt that @Fullthrottleguy mentions,  I did 4 Dailey setups and 4 Aviad setups, the Dailey pulleys Go out quicker, so if you do a Dailey setup get spare pulley, On the Last pulley we sent it out to our own Hard Coat Treatment, the Aviad used Jones Racing Products pulleys or the own Aviad, the Aviad pulleys is the same we send them out, 

the Jones seem Rock solid and hold up very long,  

When putting on any of the pulleys on the pump, make sure to use Anit seize the pulleys may not come off if you do not,  

It is hard for any Pump Manufacture to hit the right pulley size, so you might want to try one first,  for example on some of the motors due to the bearing clearance we went up or down 2 tooth on size to get the oil pressure i wanted on Idle.  Do not think of this as a WETSUMP, you do not need massive oil pressure at idle, i run around  18-25 at idle hot with the bearing clearance i have on my car,  you can adjust the off idle external with a set screw on the pump,  or a spring change. 

Like Alex says above if you loose a belt you loose oil pressure instant,  find some way to warn you,  Mine has a LED light and the dash will flash NO OIL, 

Venting on my car, Picture are on another topic i have that is a Dry Sump install on my chassis,   My tank is behind the rear seat, I have a lot of sheet metal, so like a remote fill on the fuel tank i have a Remote fill on the oil tank, On my tank, the vent goes from the tank to its own expansion tank 2 feet above the oil tank with two filters installed, I check this tank regularly to see if it was mounted high enough, and when i look in the tank it is completely dry and the filters look new,  so the tank should be doing it job. My valve covers go to a separate tank about a foot above the valve covers and 4 feet away, both have 10AN on each valve cover,   I dont really get any blowby due to having gapless rings and naturally aspirated, 

The Right Tank,  what are you doing with the car,  for example Richie Rich is car, that he has now, we just did the dry sump on the motor, but he did the tank, the first tank was short and it was a cheap Salandra tank with no baffle, and he just put a filter on the tank.  Every full tilt wheelies the oil would splash out, made a mess of things, Rich like to Wheelie so the new tank is twice as tall and is only filled half way up instead of 3/4.   

On a dry sump dont over fill the tank,  that what everyone does there first time,  just human nature i guess,  fill the tank with the car running to see the level rev up the motor off idle and see where the level is.   

 
FWIW, in the Pro Mod, we had a heater in the tank for the motor oil.  we would heat it in the morning & it would be good for the day. 

We would plug in the heater for a while, when we stuck our hand on the tank & we could tell there was "some heat in the oil", we would slip the belt off & drive the pump with a drill motor and cycle oil through the motor.  hit the bump button right there next to the pump & spin the motor 180* (on the crank) and spin the pump for a few more minutes.  Hit the bump button again & spin it 180*, and do this 4 times.  This would also push warm oil up into the top end and lub the cam before we lit it off.  that motor could grow over 1/8" from cold to operating temp.  LOTS of aluminum....

Not sure how you would do that on a trans............. 

 
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