Double disc clutch adjustment

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ChasingSand

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Just installed my double disc clutch and the car will not go into gear. I can almost get into reverse but it grinds if I get close. Pretty lost at this point.
 
Did you originally have a double disk clutch? Did you do anything to the slave cylinder? Did you makes sure the disks and spacer were installed on the correct direction?
 
L.R.S. said:
Did you originally have a double disk clutch? Did you do anything to the slave cylinder? Did you makes sure the disks and spacer were installed on the correct direction?
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Hey Jeff, the dual disc is an upgrade from the single disc. I didn’t do anything to the slave cylinder. Where should the adjustment on the cylinder be?
The disc’s are installed correct per Kennedy’s instructions.
 
Did you get a new flywheel for the dbl disc ? I don’t know if it possible to install a dbl disc int a single disc flywheel
 
How much free play do you have on the clutch arm?

It does not need much

Are you sure no air in the system?
 
Indian Joe said:
How much free play do you have on the clutch arm?

It does not need much

Are you sure no air in the system?
Click to expand...
So I adjusted it and can now get the car into gear. Shifter still needs adjustment but the car does move forward and backwards.

What is strange is it literally on grabs the last inch when releasing the clutch pedal. Is that normal?
 
I have a new one here if you remember how you put it together i can show pictures,
Is it a 8'' or a 9''

Might seem obvious, but you have the flywheel on, then the disc with the shorter splines, then the floater then the disc with the longer splines,

Also for adjustment, the slave cylinder on the trans did you pull the shaft by hand as far apart as it will go then adjust the slave cylinder,
Just checking to make sure the slave cylinder is not bottomed out,

Take the slave cylinder and pull on it as hard as you can, and then see how much adjustment you have,
 
I am 98% sure the disc are installed correctly I follow the directions that Kennedy had emailed me.

I am going to try and back out the adjustment nut all the way on the slave and start adjusting it in and see what changes.
 
ChasingSand said:
So I adjusted it and can now get the car into gear. Shifter still needs adjustment but the car does move forward and backwards.

What is strange is it literally on grabs the last inch when releasing the clutch pedal. Is that normal?
Click to expand...
My experience has been that different clutch packages will have different release/ engagement points. If your clutch is engaging in the last inch of pedal travel than it should also disengage relatively at the same point assuming that everything is assembled correctly. Bleed your system again making sure the bleed valve is pointing up. Do you have a stop on your clutch pedal? Good idea to have one if you do not. Slave and master cylinder seals and pistons are in good condition? Best advice I can give is to call KEP.
 
Sandkist said:
My experience has been that different clutch packages will have different release/ engagement points. If your clutch is engaging in the last inch of pedal travel than it should also disengage relatively at the same point assuming that everything is assembled correctly. Bleed your system again making sure the bleed valve is pointing up. Do you have a stop on your clutch pedal? Good idea to have one if you do not. Slave and master cylinder seals and pistons are in good condition? Best advice I can give is to call KEP.
Click to expand...
Haven’t bled the system in 4 years but never had an issue before.

I don’t have a stop but will look into adding one to the FCN pedals.

Slave and master are in great shape with no leaks
 
Set it up with minimal play in the slave cylinder. Pull the slave and adjust the nut up to just below the arm. This will give enough free play so that the throw out bearing isn’t riding on the pressure plate. My cars engagement and disengagement was at the beginning half of the pedal. No need to push all the way in.
 
Small update. Adjusted slave cylinder and clutch is way better. Still need to iron out the shifter adjustment
 
ChasingSand said:
Hey Jeff, the dual disc is an upgrade from the single disc. I didn’t do anything to the slave cylinder. Where should the adjustment on the cylinder be?
The disc’s are installed correct per Kennedy’s instructions.
Click to expand...
Looks like you found the issue by adjusting the slave.
 
When you pull back on the slave cylinder, the full system should have about 1/16 to a 1/8 gap on the double locking nuts, also make sure the nuts are on the same side,
Do not have the nuts on each side of the bracket that is incorrect, it is a adjustment nut and a jam nut,
 
Wow. A thread with actual good advise from all who participated. Nice work everyone.

I will add this:

When the slave is adjusted with just a small amount of freeplay in the clutch arm, most clutch pedals should only have to travel 3"-4" MAX to disengage the clutch. (this depends on the pedal length and master cylinder size, some can certainly be less)

Most clutch pedals can travel 6"+ without a stop. If you push the pedal all the way down, there is a chance you are pushing the throw out bearing too far into the clutch and causing the fingers to drag on the discs. This can make it feel like the clutch is not disengaging.
 
And by all means add a stop to the clutch pedal, there is no sense in pushing on the pressure plate fingers any more than is necessary to let the disc slip. And to take it one step further for those who have super heavy clutches, it's never a good idea to keep the clutch pedal down while the engine is running except to shift. It put a tremendous force on the crankshaft thrust bearing and can cause premature thrust bearing failure. If I'm not actively shifting my foot is always off of the clutch pedal.

I tack welded a 1" long x 5/16" threaded hex sleeve to the upper bolt on the clutch master, then used a short bolt and jam nut to get the travel just where I want it. Jack 1 rear wheel off of the ground and in gear, have an assistant try to rotate the wheel while you push on the clutch, when you get to the point the wheel will rotate measure the pedal travel and add 1" more measured at the pedal pad. This will probably be about half of the throw of the clutch master on average depending on the clutch master diameter.
 
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