CV Stuck To The Cup

SANDPSYCHO

SANDPSYCHO

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I have one CV (934) that some how bonds itself to the CV cup. I can beat on it with a 3 lbs sledge until my arms get tired and it doesn't budge. I have deployed chemicals and thought while I wait for them to work I'd ask what's you method of removing one?

I would really like to know how to prevent this before I switch to midboards and can't expose the inside of the CV body.

 
Never had that problem... but maybe try some heat? torch it. 

or slide a long ass bolt into the top hole (not going into the threads of the cup) and then hit that with a hammer..... the longer leverage and angle might be enough to pry an edge loose. 

 
I have found  thats usually from either "a liberal application" of locktite used on the bolts and seeping between the CV and the flange or grease making a nice tight vacuum seal. 

I have used just about every solvent there is and nothing worked to loosen them

I have had them so Tight I had to tap two of the holes to 9/16  (or 1/2 if they are 7/16 and put a 3./8 flat plate bolted across them with a Nut welded to the plate  and a hole behind it  then thread in a  bolt and literally pressed the cv off the cup using the bolt

If you use too much heat you will be replacing the seal on the stub axles in the trans

I hope someone has a really good fix I never found  - always open to a better way

 
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if the cv is junk weld a steering wheel puller to it and put a impact gun on it. if the cv is good just clean it up in place and put it back together if you can. or put it back together with out the bolts and dump the clutch

 
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BFH. Tap it a few timesnamd it'll pop off. See it pretty often 

 
Just to show I wasn't being gentle. I left my mark on them.

20210920_183336.jpg

I got it off after it soaked some PB Blaster on the inside and a few hits with the BF hammer. 

I'm with Fullthrottleguy and Loctite getting in there. I'm going to try torquing 2 maybe 3 boots dry then use loctite on the other 3 or 4 then go back and Loctite the 2 or 3 dry bolts. If that doesn't work I'll get another job and pay Jeff to do this chit. :lol:

 
SANDPSYCHO said:
Just to show I wasn't being gentle. I left my mark on them.

View attachment 14463

I got it off after it soaked some PB Blaster on the inside and a few hits with the BF hammer. 

I'm with Fullthrottleguy and Loctite getting in there. I'm going to try torquing 2 maybe 3 boots dry then use loctite on the other 3 or 4 then go back and Loctite the 2 or 3 dry bolts. If that doesn't work I'll get another job and pay Jeff to do this chit. :lol:
Click to expand...
My fix is to put the Locktite in the threads of the flange rather than on the bolt it fixes the problem 

I am scared of the Hammer trick - I have seen cracked stub axles in Mendeolas - I am sure I would hit it too hard

 
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SANDPSYCHO said:
Just to show I wasn't being gentle. I left my mark on them.

View attachment 14463

I got it off after it soaked some PB Blaster on the inside and a few hits with the BF hammer. 

I'm with Fullthrottleguy and Loctite getting in there. I'm going to try torquing 2 maybe 3 boots dry then use loctite on the other 3 or 4 then go back and Loctite the 2 or 3 dry bolts. If that doesn't work I'll get another job and pay Jeff to do this chit. :lol:
Click to expand...
When I put my axles back together I put 2 bolts in dry and tighten them. Then the rest I put lock-tite on and torque them. Then pull the first 2 out. I never had a reason to do it that way lol just kind of what I do. Glad to see I’ve saved myself some headaches. 

 
I had this idea for a tool. Weld six pieces of round stock to a piece of plate so they fit snugly into the CV but not the flange. Weld a large bolt to the center of the plate so only the bolt head is exposed. Use a breaker bar to work the CV clockwise and counter clockwise.
I was always able to get mine off with a BFH and some soaking if necessary so I never built the tool. But I threatened to build it many times.
In theory it should work. 

 
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Spent the day cleaning everything up and there is definitely signs of Loctite on the cup and CV out from the bolt holes. Going to use a different approach this year and see what happens. 

 
Use loctite that comes in a stick. Not liquid. 
The stick kind doesn’t run all over. 
I have been using it for years. Much more controllable. 

 
I use a product called Vibra-Tite.  Best way I can describe it is that it is like a rubber cement.  You paint it on the bolts, let it dry and then install.  Nice thing about the Vibra-Tite is you can retorque the bolts and not break the bond like you do with Loctite, they say you can even remove and reinstall without reapplying.  I had a race team tell me about the Vibra-Tite and I use it often and have had great results.  Everyone that I have told about it and has used it has also had great results.

 
Just Fuelin Around said:
I use a product called Vibra-Tite.  Best way I can describe it is that it is like a rubber cement.  You paint it on the bolts, let it dry and then install.  Nice thing about the Vibra-Tite is you can retorque the bolts and not break the bond like you do with Loctite, they say you can even remove and reinstall without reapplying.  I had a race team tell me about the Vibra-Tite and I use it often and have had great results.  Everyone that I have told about it and has used it has also had great results.
Click to expand...
I have used Vibra-tite on Guns - never tried it on Cars - I need to check it out . . .

 
Just Fuelin Around said:
I use a product called Vibra-Tite.  Best way I can describe it is that it is like a rubber cement.  You paint it on the bolts, let it dry and then install.  Nice thing about the Vibra-Tite is you can retorque the bolts and not break the bond like you do with Loctite, they say you can even remove and reinstall without reapplying.  I had a race team tell me about the Vibra-Tite and I use it often and have had great results.  Everyone that I have told about it and has used it has also had great results.
Click to expand...
Which product do you use?  The blue gel or ????

 
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