Clutches! Weddle Vs KEP

EmpirE231

EmpirE231

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So it looks like I need a whole new clutch.  Had some oil getting sprayed around, and some chunk of metal blast the crap out of the insider of my bellhousing / clutch.

I was currently running the weddle twin disk 9" clutch... but given the $2300 price tag, I am considering something like the Kennedy twin disk 9" stage 4 for half the price.  Is there something I am missing here or need to consider?  what is the performance and function difference between these 2 clutches?  Is stage 4 what I would need to run?

car has an S4S w/ about 800 crank HP, VW bellhousing 

 
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I have alway run the KEP 2 disc 9" Supercharged LSA with 800 crank HP. Never had an issue. I didn't even know Weddle made a VW clutch.

Side note I had some flywheel teeth come off and make my clutch look like that and I ran it for 2 seasons no problems 

 
Whipsandshyt said:
I have alway run the KEP 2 disc 9" Supercharged LSA with 800 crank HP. Never had an issue. I didn't even know Weddle made a VW clutch.

Side note I had some flywheel teeth come off and make my clutch look like that and I ran it for 2 seasons no problems 
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thanks for the feedback.... what stage clutch are you running?

yeah I didn't even know I had a clutch issue until I took it apart.  Clutch was still working fine, but don't want to put it back in looking like this.... + plates are all burned up / worn out from the oil getting all over it. 

 
Maybe send it back for a rebuild...  who gives a crap if its ugly inside the bell housing.  I know that KEP does that.

 
Looks like the damage is just cosmetic?? I wonder if the PP for dual disc is the same as a single. I have a PP that is basically brand new (three hours of run time) for sale.

IMG_0739.jpeg

 
Bobalos said:
Maybe send it back for a rebuild...  who gives a crap if its ugly inside the bell housing.  I know that KEP does that.
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I checked w/ Sean @ weddle and he said they can' really rebuild / resurface these, and for how many parts I would need to get to salvage it (new pressure plate, disks etc, it would be more beneficial to just get a whole new clutch kit. 

 
Sandkist said:
Looks like the damage is just cosmetic?? I wonder if the PP for dual disc is the same as a single. I have a PP that is basically brand new (three hours of run time) for sale.

View attachment 82417
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would be nice, but you can see some of the bolt holes that attached the pressure plate to the flywheel are all spaced differently 

 
EmpirE231 said:
thanks for the feedback.... what stage clutch are you running?

yeah I didn't even know I had a clutch issue until I took it apart.  Clutch was still working fine, but don't want to put it back in looking like this.... + plates are all burned up / worn out from the oil getting all over it. 
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Sorry forgot the info Stage 4

 
Never had good luck with Center-Force Products,  Kennedy for my has been super solid,  easy to work with, 

Best part is on the 9'' KEP, you can send it the discs and will repuck them for around $80.  

 
Give this place a call, I’ve had great luck having clutches rebuilt with them. 

IMG_6197.png

 
When I bought my Tatum it had a tilton triple in it and needed rebuilt, the cost was crazy so I went with the kennedy twin stage 4, I have it rebuilt every 4-5 years when the transmission comes out, knock on wood never have had a problem with kennedy

 
EmpirE231 said:
Does it require some serious effort on the clutch peddle? 
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yes, pretty heavy,  but the Center Force you have now most likely is equal to a Kennedy Stage 2,   I am running a dual Stage 3, and run around 750HP,  I have motors built with 1300hp on turbos with a stage 4 and blower motors making 1200hp with a stage 4 no issues, 

If the Pedal feels heavy with a 3/4 master cylinder, than going to a 5/8 the feel will very light,  

Really depends on the master cylinder 

 
J Alper said:
yes, pretty heavy,  but the Center Force you have now most likely is equal to a Kennedy Stage 2,   I am running a dual Stage 3, and run around 750HP,  I have motors built with 1300hp on turbos with a stage 4 and blower motors making 1200hp with a stage 4 no issues, 

If the Pedal feels heavy with a 3/4 master cylinder, than going to a 5/8 the feel will very light,  

Really depends on the master cylinder 
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I am with Jason the VW clutch  - On the 10.4 LS the Weddle/Centerforce piece is Very nice, VW 9" style the KEP is a great clutch and KEP is Great about low cost repairs and rebuilds

I have 1000HP RWHP cars  that weight 2800 lbs running 36's  using stage 4 clutch  pedal pressure is not bad

 
KEP is a very standup company.  I called to replace a blown pressure plate on a vehicle I bought from someone else.  Without prompting, they told me it was covered under their warranty and to just send it in, they'll send another back if it can't be repaired.  

Got it back with less than a day turnaround on their end (3 total).  Standup company that will take care of you.

 
J Alper said:
yes, pretty heavy,  but the Center Force you have now most likely is equal to a Kennedy Stage 2,   I am running a dual Stage 3, and run around 750HP,  I have motors built with 1300hp on turbos with a stage 4 and blower motors making 1200hp with a stage 4 no issues, 

If the Pedal feels heavy with a 3/4 master cylinder, than going to a 5/8 the feel will very light,  

Really depends on the master cylinder 
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so with my current car, S4S around twin turbo 800HP @ the crank, should I be going with a stage 4 or stage 3?

 
EmpirE231 said:
so with my current car, S4S around twin turbo 800HP @ the crank, should I be going with a stage 4 or stage 3?
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if you have a 3/4 Master Cylinder you should have enough throw with a Stage 4 and te pedal will be pretty light and thats a safe  clutch  - but depends on the cars weight the tire size and gear ratio

the stage 3 would be fine on a lighter car  - but I would not recommend it 

If you have a 7/8 Master and you have floor mounted pedals  the stage 4 will be pretty hard  - swing pedals will be OK due to ratio - 

If you can handle a heavy Pedal go Stage 4  - dual Disks do not like to be slipped  so a stage 4 will tend to make you In and out the pedal - so its actually better for the clutch 

Since its a sequential  you hardly use the clutch anyway 

 
Fullthrottleguy said:
if you have a 3/4 Master Cylinder you should have enough throw with a Stage 4 and te pedal will be pretty light and thats a safe  clutch  - but depends on the cars weight the tire size and gear ratio

the stage 3 would be fine on a lighter car  - but I would not recommend it 

If you have a 7/8 Master and you have floor mounted pedals  the stage 4 will be pretty hard  - swing pedals will be OK due to ratio - 

If you can handle a heavy Pedal go Stage 4  - dual Disks do not like to be slipped  so a stage 4 will tend to make you In and out the pedal - so its actually better for the clutch 

Since its a sequential  you hardly use the clutch anyway 
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Sounds like stage 4 is the way to go...

it does have CNC swing pedals, not sure on the master cylinder size.... but it is a bigger car w/ 36 paddles, and would guestimate it to weight 2750ish lbs 

 
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