Clutch pedal stop adjustment

[EastMT]

2D, single disk, Honda 3.5 . I think I wore out my previous clutch by not having the slave cylinder set nuts adusted correctly ( to tight , throw out bearing riding on the clutch fingers ) and over extending the slave cylinder/throw out bearing (no pedal stop on previous pedals). New throw out bearing, new clutch, and new pedal assembly with a set screw pedal stop for the clutch pedal. I read about the 1/4" to 3/8" free play for the slave cylinder. How do you set the pedal stop so you have enough slave cylinder throw to engage the clutch but not too much to over extend the throw out bearing?

 

[Rockwood]

Push it in with the engine running, slowly let the clutch out until it engages and have a helper mark it?

I've never had an issue with it over extending when adjusted to the correct freeplay. That slave cylinder doesn't have a huge amount of travel.

 

[lincster]

Engine off, put it in gear, push the clutch in, have someone try and roll the car.
Adjust the stop to where the car will just start to roll while in gear.
Slave I do 3/8" free play.

 

[EastMT]

Push it in with the engine running, slowly let the clutch out until it engages and have a helper mark it?

I've never had an issue with it over extending when adjusted to the correct freeplay. That slave cylinder doesn't have a huge amount of travel.

Thanks!

 

[EastMT]

Engine off, put it in gear, push the clutch in, have someone try and roll the car.
Adjust the stop to where the car will just start to roll while in gear.
Slave I do 3/8" free play.

Thanks! Appreciate the freeplay measurement.

 

[Rockwood]

Engine off, put it in gear, push the clutch in, have someone try and roll the car.
Adjust the stop to where the car will just start to roll while in gear.
Slave I do 3/8" free play.

I'd go a little past where it starts to roll, otherwise you'll never fully disengage the clutch.

 

[rivermobster]

I'd go a little past where it starts to roll, otherwise you'll never fully disengage the clutch.

+1

He will find out Real quick, when he tries to put it in reverse!

Can the fingers really go so far they would actually hit the clutch disc?

I would try and go into reverse, with the engine running at idle.

If it's like most every manual transmission, there is no syncro on reverse.

It should go in easily.

 

[SeanRitchie]

+1

He will find out Real quick, when he tries to put it in reverse!

Can the fingers really go so far they would actually hit the clutch disc?

I would try and go into reverse, with the engine running at idle.

If it's like most every manual transmission, there is no syncro on reverse.

It should go in easily.

Yes. Happens all the time.

Clutch pedal should only need to move about 3-4" to dis-engage. Most pedals have way too much travel.

 

[EastMT]

Clutch pedal should only need to move about 3-4" to dis-engage. Most pedals have way too much travel.

Is that with a 3/4 master cylinder?

 

[rivermobster]

Yes. Happens all the time.

Clutch pedal should only need to move about 3-4" to dis-engage. Most pedals have way too much travel.

Wow.

Since I'm mainly a car dealership guy (or was anyway), I'm used to everything being designed/engenered to the T.

In the aftermarket world, where who knows what diameter slave or master is being used, or what the pedal ratio is...

I was hesitant to make any kind of recommendation here.