Best Drop Hitch for 21k Towing

[Dockmaster]

Who’s towing heavy on a bumper pull and what drop hitch do you use? I need minimum 6” drop.  I just ordered a Diamond C dump trailer and plan to use it to occasionally transport the excavator I recently bought. The trailer empty is around 6,000 lbs and the excavator is 12,250 lbs. Throw in the extra buckets and a few items and I’ll be close to 20k. The trailer has 10k axles and a 23k GVWR and I’m rated for 21k on my truck and hitch. So I’ll be close to max but not exceeding. I currently have a 3” Weigh Safe drop hitch that IS rated for 21k max and 2200 tongue. But I’m not sure I’m comfortable putting that much weight on an aluminum drop hitch regardless of the rating. The part that scares me are the two small round bars that slide into the holes for height adjustment. They just seem small diameter to me. Anyone towing heavy on a Weigh Safe? How about the Gen-Y torsion hitch? I will probably only tow this heavy once or twice a year for a couple hundred miles so I hate to spend the $1k on the Gen-Y but if necessary I’d rather be safe than sorry. Suggestions and real world relevant experiences appreciated. 

 

[L.R.S.]

I had an Ekhart 6" drop with a 2 5/16" ball stamped 30k lbs. It was beefy. Both my Silverado's now have Gen Y 6" drop hitches and they're rated at 32k. 9" dro.is 21k. Wish Gen Y made a 5th wheel hitch, but it would weigh 1k lbs.

 

[Dockmaster]

I had an Ekhart 6" drop with a 2 5/16" ball stamped 30k lbs. It was beefy. Both my Silverado's now have Gen Y 6" drop hitches and they're rated at 32k. 9" dro.is 21k. Wish Gen Y made a 5th wheel hitch, but it would weigh 1k lbs.

You prefer just the solid units vs. the Torsional ones? 

 

[L.R.S.]

You prefer just the solid units vs. the Torsional ones? 

I've never used a torsion hitch. One of my drivers has the Gen Y torsion and loves it, heard the same from some friends. One day I'll step up.

 

[ElCaminoManT]

If you know what drop you need for that setup and don't foresee needing to adjust the hitch just get one of the forged steel units from Curt or Buyers for around $100

 

[FENDERFAB]

i use a bulletproof hitch.

Super happy with it. i run the 12" drop 22k model, but they also have 36k rating hitches as well. 

https://www.bulletproofhitches.com/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=paid&utm_campaign=18505365489&utm_content=143661259642&utm_term=bulletproof hitches&gadid=626098452390&gclid=CjwKCAjw38SoBhB6EiwA8EQVLigUDuVh7qNDCOGgmmhwB3Qv1QSKGY8zBeOXjWYYSaLoBFb3EM3gHxoC-x4QAvD_BwE

 

[BRANDON LONG]

Who’s towing heavy on a bumper pull and what drop hitch do you use? I need minimum 6” drop.  I just ordered a Diamond C dump trailer and plan to use it to occasionally transport the excavator I recently bought. The trailer empty is around 6,000 lbs and the excavator is 12,250 lbs. Throw in the extra buckets and a few items and I’ll be close to 20k. The trailer has 10k axles and a 23k GVWR and I’m rated for 21k on my truck and hitch. So I’ll be close to max but not exceeding. I currently have a 3” Weigh Safe drop hitch that IS rated for 21k max and 2200 tongue. But I’m not sure I’m comfortable putting that much weight on an aluminum drop hitch regardless of the rating. The part that scares me are the two small round bars that slide into the holes for height adjustment. They just seem small diameter to me. Anyone towing heavy on a Weigh Safe? How about the Gen-Y torsion hitch? I will probably only tow this heavy once or twice a year for a couple hundred miles so I hate to spend the $1k on the Gen-Y but if necessary I’d rather be safe than sorry. Suggestions and real world relevant experiences appreciated. 

If it helps with your decision, I have the weigh safe drop hitch (6") and I did break it with heavy tongue weight. Towing a tractor with a box blade and a loader on the front. I must have been over 1500 lbs tongue weight or it just failed. I am also currently looking at the GenY hitch compared to the bullet proof hitch but notice the bottom/other ball seems to hang down a bit lower. 

 

[1newbie]

IDK what truck you are towing with, but I do know the earlier silverados with round tube receivers were weak.  I trust the 3" receiver on my Ford, but I will bet those hitches are stronger than your receiver.  Also a tongue scale is not a bad investment.  I tow commercially up to 80k and thought I knew a lot.  Several years ago I loaded my stacker with two rzr's and a prerunner buggy.  Was ready to drive away and decided to weigh the tongue weight.  It pegged my 2500lb tongue scale instantly.  Had to readjust the whole f'n trailer, but wise move when considering your family's safety.

 

[FENDERFAB]

IDK what truck you are towing with, but I do know the earlier silverados with round tube receivers were weak.  I trust the 3" receiver on my Ford, but I will bet those hitches are stronger than your receiver.  Also a tongue scale is not a bad investment.  I tow commercially up to 80k and thought I knew a lot.  Several years ago I loaded my stacker with two rzr's and a prerunner buggy.  Was ready to drive away and decided to weigh the tongue weight.  It pegged my 2500lb tongue scale instantly.  Had to readjust the whole f'n trailer, but wise move when considering your family's safety.

Agree with this 100%.  I was loading to go to glamis one day and my oem reciever on my 3500hd was completely cracked.  If i didnt catch it when i did i would have 100% lost the trailer on the way.  

I upgraded to a class 5 curt receiver along with airbags, heavier leaf springs and new hitches.  Gotta make sure all of the items are covered.   

 

[Dockmaster]

If it helps with your decision, I have the weigh safe drop hitch (6") and I did break it with heavy tongue weight. Towing a tractor with a box blade and a loader on the front. I must have been over 1500 lbs tongue weight or it just failed. I am also currently looking at the GenY hitch compared to the bullet proof hitch but notice the bottom/other ball seems to hang down a bit lower. 

This confirms my concerns. I don't know which  Weigh Safe you had or it's rating. The one I have is rated for 21k and 2,200 tongue but I just don't trust it. Where did yours break?

 

[Dockmaster]

IDK what truck you are towing with, but I do know the earlier silverados with round tube receivers were weak.  I trust the 3" receiver on my Ford, but I will bet those hitches are stronger than your receiver.  Also a tongue scale is not a bad investment.  I tow commercially up to 80k and thought I knew a lot.  Several years ago I loaded my stacker with two rzr's and a prerunner buggy.  Was ready to drive away and decided to weigh the tongue weight.  It pegged my 2500lb tongue scale instantly.  Had to readjust the whole f'n trailer, but wise move when considering your family's safety.

2017 F350 with the factory 3" receiver rated at 21k. I'll look closely for any sign of problems but it's pretty beefy. I haven't heard of any issues with these hitches but I'll research some to see if any reports of problems. 

 

[Dockmaster]

Agree with this 100%.  I was loading to go to glamis one day and my oem reciever on my 3500hd was completely cracked.  If i didnt catch it when i did i would have 100% lost the trailer on the way.  

I upgraded to a class 5 curt receiver along with airbags, heavier leaf springs and new hitches.  Gotta make sure all of the items are covered.   

I'm considering airbags. Once my new trailer gets here I plan to load the excavator in it and see how bad my truck squats. I'll use my existing Weigh Safe in static just to get a tongue weight. I suspect I will need airbags. Even though I will seldom tow this heavy it will drive me crazy if I'm squatted much. 

 

[L.R.S.]

Knowing the tongue weight is important, especially if you tow a lot of different stuff like we do.  I bought a Weigh Safe and loved it.  The ball got wobbly after a year so I hit them up.  New scale and ball dealio were $65.  The aluminum ovals out but seemed like a steel liner would help.  Maybe 6 mohtns later the scale broke.  They warrantied it and sent me out a DIY kit which took 30 mins to replace.  a few months later the scale was broken again.  This is not from us overloading the tongue and the scale breaking.  It's a sh!it product and doesnt hold up to daily use.  WIsh it did work, because now I use my portable tongue scale which is more of a hassle.  

I upgraded my 2006 Silverado factory reviever with a Curt Class V 2.5".  Bolted right up.  Couple years later it tore the frame of my truck.  Fortunately I was towing my personal enclosed, empty, and had just pulled it out of my storage spot when I heard it dragging.

 

[Rockwood]

2017 F350 with the factory 3" receiver rated at 21k. I'll look closely for any sign of problems but it's pretty beefy. I haven't heard of any issues with these hitches but I'll research some to see if any reports of problems. 

Shouldn't you be running a WD hitch for 21k lbs?



From:

https://www.ford.com/cmslibs/content/dam/brand_ford/en_us/brand/resources/general/pdf/brochures/17RVTT_Ford_SuperDtyCC_Sep7.pdf

There's usually a non WD rating, and a with WD rating on the hitch.

 

[Dockmaster]

Shouldn't you be running a WD hitch for 21k lbs?

There's usually a non WD rating, and a with WD rating on the hitch.

Yes, you are correct. And yes, I do have the OEM WD hitch. I won’t be all the way to 21k, should be around 18k but I like to plan for more and have some extra safety margin. 

 

[Rockwood]

Yes, you are correct. And yes, I do have the OEM WD hitch. I won’t be all the way to 21k, should be around 18k but I like to plan for more and have some extra safety margin. 

Word. No clue what the non WD rating is, but I’d pay attention to it, esp tongue weight. WD hitch takes tongue weight and transfers it to a horizontal load, which the hitch is much better at taking. 

 

[Dockmaster]

Word. No clue what the non WD rating is, but I’d pay attention to it, esp tongue weight. WD hitch takes tongue weight and transfers it to a horizontal load, which the hitch is much better at taking. 

The WD hitch is basically a truss that carries some of the load farther forward on the frame and closer to the rear axle. Essentially, it helps reduce the lever moment created by putting tongue weight all the way aft. A typical hitch will bolt on to the frame and maybe include a flange that runs 12" - 18" forward on the frame. Lighter duty hitches will be much less than this. Here's a picture of the WD hitch I have. Not a great picture as it was raining but you can see how the hitch is a deeper web and then carries much father forward than a typical hitch. This one covers about 3/4 of the distance between the rear axle and the end of the hitch. You can't see it in this picture but it also has dual webs on each side that form a deep channel. At the forward end of the hitch as it turns upward there is even a closure plate on the bottom to make it a full box. 

 

[Rockwood]

The WD hitch is basically a truss that carries some of the load farther forward on the frame and closer to the rear axle. Essentially, it helps reduce the lever moment created by putting tongue weight all the way aft. A typical hitch will bolt on to the frame and maybe include a flange that runs 12" - 18" forward on the frame. Lighter duty hitches will be much less than this. Here's a picture of the WD hitch I have. Not a great picture as it was raining but you can see how the hitch is a deeper web and then carries much father forward than a typical hitch. This one covers about 3/4 of the distance between the rear axle and the end of the hitch. You can't see it in this picture but it also has dual webs on each side that form a deep channel. At the forward end of the hitch as it turns upward there is even a closure plate on the bottom to make it a full box. 

View attachment 81974

View attachment 81975

Nice, question answered.

One thing I've wondered is why the bolts for hitches are always in tension, not shear.  Seems it would put less stress on everything...

 

[Dockmaster]

One thing I've wondered is why the bolts for hitches are always in tension, not shear.  Seems it would put less stress on everything...

The only practical way to put them in shear would be to bolt the hitch to the side of the frame instead of the bottom flange. The web (side) of the channel that makes up the frame is often thinner material than the flange and I think you would induce more tearing there. Even if not thinner or you reinforced the bolting areas you wouldn't get the full sectional strength of the entire frame channel. You would improve one weak point for the sake of inducing another. Easier solved with larger flange head bolts and nuts and washer plates/bars instead of just heavy flat washers.