Basic Sandrail questions-Oil Pressure Low?

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wopachop

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You guys helped me get this buggy running last year it has the 3.5L Honda Engine and im told a 091 trans. Old thread on Fuel Filters

They took the buggy out last year. I wasnt there but told it ran decent after new fuel injectors and fuel pump. We decided to pull it out today and start it up. I noticed a blinking red light. Im told they decided to ignore the giant huge red blinking light last trip because the engine seemed ok. I drove it today for a minute and noticed a pressure gauge reading low and blinking. At idle its around 30-40 and revved it goes up to 60. I was loading the sandrail back onto the trailer and saw it blinking and only showing 15. Im pretty sure this is causing the larger red light to blink. 

That leads to my questions. 

1. Is that an oil pressure gauge? If yes, i sure hope its a faulty gauge and not low oil pressure. I havent googled how to test oil pressure yet. Hoping you guys can fast track me knowledge. 

2. If the CVs are worn out where do you purchase from and is there a go to brand? 

3. The Bilstein shocks are leaking. What is the proper term to call them when we call around for quotes? Im guessing its oiled filled, since i see leaking oil. Are some oil and nitrogen filled? I know zero about sandrail shocks. These have to be 15-20 years old. 

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You can shop CVs on Pacific Customs to get an idea of price ranges and quality but there are other retailers with good quality ones not sold on pacific customs like alpermotorsports who is a member here. You may not need top of the line if you aren't running high angles or high HP but a good quality one can go a long way. I went with Fortin 930cvs after breaking a few cages. 

You have coilover shocks. Yes, they use both oil and nitrogen. Definitely watch a YouTube video of a rebuild to learn about them. 

I know nothing about a Honda or its oil pressures. 

Good luck. 

 
Havnt figured out the oil pressure dealio yet. 

I think its a 091 trans with a hydraulic clutch. Google is telling me brake fluid is popular. Would you guys suggest a DOT 4 for the clutch? No clue whats in there now. 

 
Out a manual guage for oil pressure 15 at idle is fine 40-50 is fine revved up

Shocks need rebuild actually easy to do yourself if you read up on it. Reseal kit about 10-15 bucks oil 40 a gallon should use a lil over 1/2 then 5-10 to recharge. 
 

cv kartek or makenzies

 
Your oil waring light will come on at whatever the switch is set to.  There is no mention in the OE manual as to what pressure the switch will "switch" at.

The factory test pressures are...

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Well thats a relief!!!

10psi minimum. I probably bogged the engine driving it up the trailer. Causing the warning light to trigger. 

The clutch is really hard to operate smoothly. Its like it will engage and start to roll.....then lose pressure. I continue letting the clutch out but it feels strange. Doesnt engage. Almost like it popped outta gear. 

Hoping its just old clutch fluid with bubbles. 

 
wopachop said:
Well thats a relief!!!

10psi minimum. I probably bogged the engine driving it up the trailer. Causing the warning light to trigger. 

The clutch is really hard to operate smoothly. Its like it will engage and start to roll.....then lose pressure. I continue letting the clutch out but it feels strange. Doesnt engage. Almost like it popped outta gear. 

Hoping its just old clutch fluid with bubbles. 
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That or the clutch cylinder is leaking pressure within the seals etc. I have just discovered this in my car. I barely made it to the driveway where it was going for a teardown. I'm also going to be paying attention to the over-extension of the clutch movement. In reality, we don't need a full stroke of the pedal for our application and over pedaling the clutch can damage the seals internally. Many have made a stopper bolt behind the cylinder to prevent this from happening. Just throwing this out there as it may help someone down the line. Good luck! 

 
Totally makes sense. I used to have a VW powered sandrail in the 90s. I had to put a stopper at the clutch because friends would push it in waaaaaay to far. 

This clutch feels like it engages early on.....then the middle range does nothing....then at the very end it makes friction again. Super hard loading into the toyhauler. Took me like 6 tries. Would make it halfway up the ramp and then start rolling backwards. Even though i was releasing the clutch more and more. Felt like at any moment it would engage and launch me forward. 

 
What trans fluid should they run? 

Might be a good time to invest in those metal zip ties with the tool to pull it super tight. 

With the transmission level and proper oil height should we expect a bunch of oil to exit the CV boot? 

Or does it have to be a severely worn CV to allow trans fluid to exit? Im pretty sure the CV is greased. Not lubricated by the trans fluid. I think they said it was leaking oil from the boot. At least the trans points downward so it cant leak all it oil out. 

I must have checked the level a year ago. Might have even added oil. Theres a bottle of gear oil in the supply container with the nozzle top. I might have shot some in. 

 
On my buggy with an 002, there was a seal that went in the flange behind the cv.  I got them on pacific customs.  

Also I used those same worm clamps on the big side of the cv and a zip tie on the small side.  But don't use anything on the small side of my 930s.  

 
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