Axles

Wrecked

Active member
Joined
May 5, 2021
Messages
142
Reaction score
66
Ok so I’m about to set up the axles. I remember  that ther should be a quarter inch of play at level. Before I make the cut anyone tell me if I’m right?

 
1/4" of clearance at the tightest point. It's what I've always done.

Also, I recommend Bob at RBP for axles. 300m cut to order, for a decent price, and usually sent out next day. And he is a super good guy to deal with. 

 
1/4" of clearance at the tightest point. It's what I've always done.

Also, I recommend Bob at RBP for axles. 300m cut to order, for a decent price, and usually sent out next day. And he is a super good guy to deal with. 
Cool thank you

 
1/2" of clearance is how I set them up.  Jack up the trailing arm so the CV flanges are parallel.  This is the closest point the flanges will be to one another.  Measure inside cup to inside cup, subtract 1/2" and that's your axle length.

 
1/2" of clearance is how I set them up.  Jack up the trailing arm so the CV flanges are parallel.  This is the closest point the flanges will be to one another.  Measure inside cup to inside cup, subtract 1/2" and that's your axle length.
Is there any advantage to a tighter set up. On just about ever service I done I have to file the teeth to get Cv’s out on already one axle. 

 
As long as when the tire droops fully  and there is still side play it's fine. I would check both extremes on the suspension, up and down. If too short it could pull on the stars and bind the joints. I'm speaking of the shorter axles here. I've done the 1/4" thing and same as you, have to work to get stars off.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Is there any advantage to a tighter set up. On just about ever service I done I have to file the teeth to get Cv’s out on already one axle. 
The advantage of a tighter setup will help support the transaxle case industry,   you have flex in the trailing arm, so if you are to tight you can crack a case or blow the bearing loose if you have a micro stub,  i also do mine at 1/2 like LRS, 

This is a micro stub setup correct, 

Midboards you check length at full droop, completely different process 

 
It’s gear one set up slightly beefier than the micro stub but same parts type. 

 
Next thought on the axles. I need to remove about 3/4 to 1 in of the axle they measure a 1/4 in different. Would this be ok to do with a band saw? I don’t want to mess with temper of the metal. 

 
Next thought on the axles. I need to remove about 3/4 to 1 in of the axle they measure a 1/4 in different. Would this be ok to do with a band saw? I don’t want to mess with temper of the metal. 
Heat changes the temper, a band saw shouldn’t heat the metle enough to hurt the temper.  

Of course, I’m just talking out the side of my neck, I’ll wait for someone who knows what they are talking about to come tell me I’m wrong.  

 
Heat changes the temper, a band saw shouldn’t heat the metle enough to hurt the temper.  

Of course, I’m just talking out the side of my neck, I’ll wait for someone who knows what they are talking about to come tell me I’m wrong.  
You are correct.  When I cut mine down, a friend did it on a lathe with a parting tool, and then regrooved the snap ring groove for me. 

I remember reading about people doing both with a cutoff wheel on a grinder.

 
You are correct.  When I cut mine down, a friend did it on a lathe with a parting tool, and then regrooved the snap ring groove for me. 

I remember reading about people doing both with a cutoff wheel on a grinder.
I think, lacking a lathe, I’d use a hacksaw and a lot of time to cut the snap-ring grove.  IMO, a cutoff wheel is just too sloppy. 

 
Didn’t think of the hacksaw for the grove but I think that a good idea. 

 
I think, lacking a lathe, I’d use a hacksaw and a lot of time to cut the snap-ring grove.  IMO, a cutoff wheel is just too sloppy. 
I've used a cutoff wheel while the the axle was in the lathe because the cutter broke. Not ideal because the groove will be fat. I ended up using two spiral clips. That axle has been in my car for two seasons now.

 
I've used a cutoff wheel while the the axle was in the lathe because the cutter broke. Not ideal because the groove will be fat. I ended up using two spiral clips. That axle has been in my car for two seasons now.
I still think I’d use a hacksaw even if it was chucked up in a lathe over a cutoff wheel.   That said, I’m sure yours will last many seasons.  

 
If someone cuts them down straight,  I can clean up the end and re-groove them in the lathe for $25 per axle,  this pretty much takes car of the incert, the incert is pretty much dead after 4 grooves, 

Kartek will also groove them, 

RBP might wine a little because its not his axles, but think bob will do them also  

 
I cut both ends down so I would have equal length on both ends for the stars to move. After cutting down and cleaned everything thing is moving freely. 

460D26BD-3C5D-4837-9271-33209B000F3E.jpeg

2E03038A-5B37-4829-8B9D-3439E69FCA85.jpeg

28C9824A-68E4-4E06-94AA-5F76F8A7CD99.jpeg

21719C64-C7AC-4788-B26F-14A72CB33DF3.jpeg

F04F878E-6A5C-402C-B450-97927C0C6532.jpeg

0193E30C-9AB9-4B0C-BD0B-937BF30161A9.jpeg

 
Back
Top