Axle freeplay

EastMT

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Is axle freeplay correctly measured with the suspension drooped all the way or with the hubs in line horizontally with the trans or both? At full droop I have 11/16” on one side and 1-1/8” on the other side of in out freeplay. Is that in the normal range or excessive? 

 
Both.  

And hubs closest to the cups.  This is usually when the axle is flat, but could be slightly either side of flat depending on back sweep, so best to just measure throughout travel.  

 
Both.  

And hubs closest to the cups.  This is usually when the axle is flat, but could be slightly either side of flat depending on back sweep, so best to just measure throughout travel.  
What is the acceptable minimum and maximum freeplay for both positions?

 
When the axle is level you want a minimum of 1/2". You can do less but the end of the axle will get mushroomed against the cup and getting cv stars on and off become a pain. 

 
With the CV cups parallel you should have 1/2" of space between the axle and cup on either side.

 
When the axle is level you want a minimum of 1/2". You can do less but the end of the axle will get mushroomed against the cup and getting cv stars on and off become a pain. 
Thanks. The mushrooming is what I was concerned about.

 
When the axle is level you want a minimum of 1/2". You can do less but the end of the axle will get mushroomed against the cup and getting cv stars on and off become a pain. 


With the CV cups parallel you should have 1/2" of space between the axle and cup on either side.
Honest question for the guys that prep cars as I don't see enough of these to know myself: Could there be a scenario where too much axle play is the root cause of the mushrooming of the ends?

Thinking more momentum building in the axle as it collides with the cups. Less freeplay will lower the momentum built up as the axle collides. I would assume you want the longest axle possible without causing a bind in the cycle. 

Also, can mushrooming the ends be caused by side loading the suspension and forcing the axle into the cups. Thinking a hard turn into a berm forcing the trailing arm inwards.

Just thinking out loud. I have no opinion on the subject. 

 
Honest question for the guys that prep cars as I don't see enough of these to know myself: Could there be a scenario where too much axle play is the root cause of the mushrooming of the ends?

Thinking more momentum building in the axle as it collides with the cups. Less freeplay will lower the momentum built up as the axle collides. I would assume you want the longest axle possible without causing a bind in the cycle. 

Also, can mushrooming the ends be caused by side loading the suspension and forcing the axle into the cups. Thinking a hard turn into a berm forcing the trailing arm inwards.

Just thinking out loud. I have no opinion on the subject. 
Interesting thought but I don't think it would make much of a difference.  I don't prep very many cars with micro stubs but every time I do I have to file the splines, and it's always the hub side.

 
If you are cutting the axle to length, and need to make a new clip ring, you can machine the mushroom (round the end) into the axle and never file splines again  :high5:  

 
If you are cutting the axle to length, and need to make a new clip ring, you can machine the mushroom (round the end) into the axle and never file splines again  :high5:  
Depends on the hub type, but a clip isn't needed on 1 end of the axle for all hubs.

Outboards and midboards don't need a clip on the hub side, assuming the geometry is correct and the axles are the correct length throughout the travel cycle.

 
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