Anyone familiar with Lark Trailers?

zilla68

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I didn't realize how hard enclosed were to come by these days..........until i started looking.

I see good and bad on just about everything I find.

i've done my research on this one, 24ft plus the v nose.

anyone know anything about these?

 
I know nothing about them. But Yucaipa Trailer has a bunch of them.  

 
Oh damn I didn’t realize you live on OK. Good luck on your side of the states. 

 
I think enclosed trailers fall into a few categories -

For me Lark fits in the Low cost/mid level  ....

The price of Aluminum and shortages have driven prices up 50% on some trailers and all the trailer guys I know are backordered up to 6 months 

But here is how I classify them ...

the lower cost - we like to call then Georgia trailers since most are made in Douglas Georgia - tend to have I beam or c- channel chassis and usually have rivets or "screwed" panels  - they usually come in .032 or .040 aluminum sides and have an .032 single piece roof and side vs roof vents (easier) and usually very little electrical wiring 1 or 2 12volt lights and 1 axle of brakes .  They generally are light and cheap and some have 1/8 or 1/4" OSB inside wall sheets - and they will sometimes say thats a "benefit" and sometimes true but most of the time its needed because they have  24" on center wall and roof bracing and without inside paneling the outside panels after a little time will get very wavy and because they are c channel they "wiggle" the sides and top get wavy no matter what.  Usually dual 3500Lb axles and they weight less than 2500LB empty and are usually 7ft tall (6ft 6 rear door) and 36 or 48 inch side door LED lights are a "maybe"  OSB 3/4 fllors (usually not T&G)Light, cheap, and they are fine for most people and they are easier to tow due to weight

the Mid level trailers - these are usually still made in Georgia, although their are probably 20 places making them in CA and AZ and NV.  these start with same frame and suspension as the low cost but are almost always .040 walls and have seamless panels (held on with VHB tape.  they are definitely a step above and have "options" like 5000Lb axles that all mean they change the frame to Box (usually .100 or sometimes .120 wall almost always not US made tube. And always have inner side panels and usually no panels on the roof  and they have more 12volt and still side vents and wider 48th side doors - the rear doors are like the low cost and have hinges and a spring to assist lift - sometime 2 springs as an option and you can pay more and get 7'6" or 8ft tall. Still pretty light and cheaper - but these are not long life trailers most of the low cost  building techniques apply - everything is screwed and not usually glued

the "sport" level  These are the trailers most of us think of on this forum, names like Universal, Sport, Ultra, CNC  (certain Carson models)etc.   these manufacturers also do what I call Baller Level"  the sport level are a huge leap up, thicker box chassis, bigger brakes, usually 5200b axles, .040 walls and 1/8 ply backing usually with white plastic coating on walls and ceiling, painted 16" on center bracing, arched roof, stronger rear door assy and mounting frame, higher quality interior and exterior lights 3/4 tongue an groove or 1" T&G plywood floor.  so many options from sealed under floor and undercoat to bigger axles and frames, to taller and every interior feature - usually a long list including fuel stations, water tanks, solar, battery racks, benches and nice upper cabinets - these hold their value and last and they have stacker versions of the sports too.But they are heavier and roof vents that are better require more roof maintenance and you pay for the higher quality

the "Baller" level - most of the sport level trailer makes also do these, but these are the high end stackers and trailers with higher quality components throughout - if you are looking at one you know it. Many have some "living quarter features and can be 100% custom ....

I personally have owned the Mid, sport and baller levels -and if I had to I would buy a 5-10year old Sport or Baller trailer before a low or Mid knowing I could sell it for what I paid for it in a few years, where the others.. well you can ask alot, but like you saw you likely would pass because they mostly are falling apart by then - even the manufacturers say they are 5-10year trailer. , Although I have buddies I dune with low cost trailers  they have had for a few years and they don't leak, and they have 10's of thousands of miles on them  and are happy with them  - one is a Lark, one is a Sky and one is an affordable brand that he had delivered from Georgia and it was still cheaper than buying locally ..  I sold my 24ft HD 2006 Mighty mover (basically a Universal) to one of the guys in 2009, its only one of a dozen I have sold I still see every season -  he still has it and tows it 250 miles to the sand 10x a year  and has left it at GDS for a couple years through the summers, and all he has done is put tires on, greased the hubs, and resealed the roof a couple times and it looks, albeit faded, like new  ....FWIW

 
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thanks for that info, 

the one i was kicking tires on sold tonite lol.

but i'll be sure to copy this info and keep looking for one. i think this one that sold was a little higher on the lark ladder if that's possible, 16" oc walls and floors. inside was same as outside, insulated and wired for 110v with a breaker box, winch, cabinets, etc. looked really nice, but was a touch out of my range, and now kicking myself for not getting it lol. but i'll find another i'm sure lol.

 
A nice new Universal with some options is about 15K if you can wait 4-6 months.

 
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A nice new Universal with some options is about 15K if you can wait 4-6 months.
i'll have to check those out. I'm not in a hurry, since my riding buddy wadded his rzr up, prob be a while before he's back in action lol

 
I have a aluminum 24’ ezhauler enclosed black, finished inside with upper cabinets and winch if your interested. It’s a 2020. Located in Phoenix area. 

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off topic, but has anyone had one of those aluminum trailers for a long time (>20 years).  Do they stand up to the miles? 

Are the frames underneath steel & then the aluminum trailer is made on top of the steel frame?  Ive never looked very hard @ one. 

 
off topic, but has anyone had one of those aluminum trailers for a long time (>20 years).  Do they stand up to the miles? 

Are the frames underneath steel & then the aluminum trailer is made on top of the steel frame?  Ive never looked very hard @ one. 
Frame is aluminum. I have a Atc stacker which is also aluminum. I’ve never had a issue and had an aluminum flatbed trailer for 10+ Years. 

 
X2…I really wanted one of there 5th wheel toyhauler but couldn’t stomach the price. Now that price is $50k more in 2.5 years

 
My cousin has a 18 year old Featherlite, it is very well built. It's all aluminum except the axles.

 
I think enclosed trailers fall into a few categories -

For me Lark fits in the Low cost/mid level  ....

The price of Aluminum and shortages have driven prices up 50% on some trailers and all the trailer guys I know are backordered up to 6 months 

But here is how I classify them ...

the lower cost - we like to call then Georgia trailers since most are made in Douglas Georgia - tend to have I beam or c- channel chassis and usually have rivets or "screwed" panels  - they usually come in .032 or .040 aluminum sides and have an .032 single piece roof and side vs roof vents (easier) and usually very little electrical wiring 1 or 2 12volt lights and 1 axle of brakes .  They generally are light and cheap and some have 1/8 or 1/4" OSB inside wall sheets - and they will sometimes say thats a "benefit" and sometimes true but most of the time its needed because they have  24" on center wall and roof bracing and without inside paneling the outside panels after a little time will get very wavy and because they are c channel they "wiggle" the sides and top get wavy no matter what.  Usually dual 3500Lb axles and they weight less than 2500LB empty and are usually 7ft tall (6ft 6 rear door) and 36 or 48 inch side door LED lights are a "maybe"  OSB 3/4 fllors (usually not T&G)Light, cheap, and they are fine for most people and they are easier to tow due to weight

the Mid level trailers - these are usually still made in Georgia, although their are probably 20 places making them in CA and AZ and NV.  these start with same frame and suspension as the low cost but are almost always .040 walls and have seamless panels (held on with VHB tape.  they are definitely a step above and have "options" like 5000Lb axles that all mean they change the frame to Box (usually .100 or sometimes .120 wall almost always not US made tube. And always have inner side panels and usually no panels on the roof  and they have more 12volt and still side vents and wider 48th side doors - the rear doors are like the low cost and have hinges and a spring to assist lift - sometime 2 springs as an option and you can pay more and get 7'6" or 8ft tall. Still pretty light and cheaper - but these are not long life trailers most of the low cost  building techniques apply - everything is screwed and not usually glued

the "sport" level  These are the trailers most of us think of on this forum, names like Universal, Sport, Ultra, CNC  (certain Carson models)etc.   these manufacturers also do what I call Baller Level"  the sport level are a huge leap up, thicker box chassis, bigger brakes, usually 5200b axles, .040 walls and 1/8 ply backing usually with white plastic coating on walls and ceiling, painted 16" on center bracing, arched roof, stronger rear door assy and mounting frame, higher quality interior and exterior lights 3/4 tongue an groove or 1" T&G plywood floor.  so many options from sealed under floor and undercoat to bigger axles and frames, to taller and every interior feature - usually a long list including fuel stations, water tanks, solar, battery racks, benches and nice upper cabinets - these hold their value and last and they have stacker versions of the sports too.But they are heavier and roof vents that are better require more roof maintenance and you pay for the higher quality

the "Baller" level - most of the sport level trailer makes also do these, but these are the high end stackers and trailers with higher quality components throughout - if you are looking at one you know it. Many have some "living quarter features and can be 100% custom ....

I personally have owned the Mid, sport and baller levels -and if I had to I would buy a 5-10year old Sport or Baller trailer before a low or Mid knowing I could sell it for what I paid for it in a few years, where the others.. well you can ask alot, but like you saw you likely would pass because they mostly are falling apart by then - even the manufacturers say they are 5-10year trailer. , Although I have buddies I dune with low cost trailers  they have had for a few years and they don't leak, and they have 10's of thousands of miles on them  and are happy with them  - one is a Lark, one is a Sky and one is an affordable brand that he had delivered from Georgia and it was still cheaper than buying locally ..  I sold my 24ft HD 2006 Mighty mover (basically a Universal) to one of the guys in 2009, its only one of a dozen I have sold I still see every season -  he still has it and tows it 250 miles to the sand 10x a year  and has left it at GDS for a couple years through the summers, and all he has done is put tires on, greased the hubs, and resealed the roof a couple times and it looks, albeit faded, like new  ....FWIW
Damn and I was feeling good about my trailer. 

 
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