934 CENTERBOARD PREP

parker@gearone

parker@gearone

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@lincster brought in some centerboard hubs for rebuild for a friend of his earlier this week.

These hubs definitely had some miles on them but if they are properly maintained they will last a long time. After tearing apart and inspecting, everything was in pretty good shape. Just knocked down some sharp edges on the hubs and CV joints then re assembled with fresh grease and seals.

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One of the CV bolts was stripped so I went ahead and welded a nut onto the head of the bold and it worked perfect.

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Removed 3 bolts that broke off in the bearing carrier on one of our Haas vf4 

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Sweeet!! A lot like paying for a landscaper, just crap I don't want to do. Nice work Parker.

Question, can a 930 G1 Midboard be machined to fit a 934 CV? Did I read that wrong somewhere? 

 
Chingon619 said:
Sweeet!! A lot like paying for a landscaper, just crap I don't want to do. Nice work Parker.

Question, can a 930 G1 Midboard be machined to fit a 934 CV? Did I read that wrong somewhere? 
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You can't machine 930 center boards to fit a 934 CV. But our trailing arm plate is the same bolt pattern for 930 & 934 so you can purchase 934 centerboards and they will bolt right up with no fabrication to the trailing arm.

 
Sweet Parker!!!!!

Lol. Yeah. We put some miles on our cars. 
Thanks for taking care of everything!!!!

Great service!!!!

 
What is the cost for this service if nothing has to be replaced? I'm more interested in the inspection side of it I'm assuming flatness, and concentricity using the CMM to verify the parts are good and useable. If they come back ready to bolt on that is awesome.

 
Cost is $300 for a pair of Centerboard hubs. Turn around time is anywhere form 3-5 business days.

includes

teardown

clean

inspection ( CMM to make sure all critical tolerances are still in spec, also a visual inspection for wear on CV joints, bearings, and parts)

grease 

assembly 

Hubs come back to you fully greased and assembled all you have to do is bolt them on the car and torque the cv bolts 

We offer this service as an affordable way to make sure customers gear one hubs perform the way they should for years

We also rebuild gear one steering racks for $75 labor

RenoDaytona said:
What is the cost for this service if nothing has to be replaced? I'm more interested in the inspection side of it I'm assuming flatness, and concentricity using the CMM to verify the parts are good and useable. If they come back ready to bolt on that is awesome.
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This thread is perfect timing. Just found my right rear hub has play, so gonna have to replace some bearings. Going to inspect both sides and pray it is only one side that needs replacement.

 
Ryan Rouh said:
This thread is perfect timing. Just found my right rear hub has play, so gonna have to replace some bearings. Going to inspect both sides and pray it is only one side that needs replacement.
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Let me know if you need any help.

 
parker@gearone said:
Let me know if you need any help.
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Perfect. FIL got it apart but he is claiming the CV cage is stuck. He is convinced that it is pressed in, I am pretty sure it is just sand and dried grease keeping it there. Could you confirm that for me as he doesn't want to use any persuasion to try to knock it loose and I can not get out to him and the car till next week.

 
Ryan Rouh said:
Perfect. FIL got it apart but he is claiming the CV cage is stuck. He is convinced that it is pressed in, I am pretty sure it is just sand and dried grease keeping it there. Could you confirm that for me as he doesn't want to use any persuasion to try to knock it loose and I can not get out to him and the car till next week.
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Guessing you're referring to the CV body, that resides inside the hub?  That is not a press fit however, it is a snug fit for sure, guessing a couple thousands clearance. Problem is, you have push or lightly tap the CV out "squarely", or the CV will get cocked and jammed inside the hub.  Throw some sand in there, would seem it's been pressed in.  If you (FIL) can find something nearly the same circumference as the CV (even a piece of 2x4), lay that on top of the CV and lightly tap in the center, thus applying even/equal force to the CV, trying to keep it squared up inside the hub.  Clean up the hub bore, maybe try blowing out any residual sand, might try a little lube/WD to help slide it out.  If that's not working, try a brass or aluminum (something soft) drift, lightly tap in a circular or cross pattern, slow going for sure, but you should see some movement.

 
carboy said:
Guessing you're referring to the CV body, that resides inside the hub?  That is not a press fit however, it is a snug fit for sure, guessing a couple thousands clearance. Problem is, you have push or lightly tap the CV out "squarely", or the CV will get cocked and jammed inside the hub.  Throw some sand in there, would seem it's been pressed in.  If you (FIL) can find something nearly the same circumference as the CV (even a piece of 2x4), lay that on top of the CV and lightly tap in the center, thus applying even/equal force to the CV, trying to keep it squared up inside the hub.  Clean up the hub bore, maybe try blowing out any residual sand, might try a little lube/WD to help slide it out.  If that's not working, try a brass or aluminum (something soft) drift, lightly tap in a circular or cross pattern, slow going for sure, but you should see some movement.
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That is exactly what I was thinking. Just hard to convince him sometimes. I'll send him this and he should believe me now. Thanks.

 
Ryan Rouh said:
Perfect. FIL got it apart but he is claiming the CV cage is stuck. He is convinced that it is pressed in, I am pretty sure it is just sand and dried grease keeping it there. Could you confirm that for me as he doesn't want to use any persuasion to try to knock it loose and I can not get out to him and the car till next week.
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It is not a press fit, it might be stuck for a number of reasons. Be patient and do what @carboy said. If that doesn’t work have him give us a call.

 
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