930 axle limitations

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Trevor

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Honest answers appreciated, hopefully some of you have had personal experience. How much wheel horsepower do you think 930 cvs and tatum mid board hubs could handle. I have a s4 in a mid engine 2 seat car was thinking of adding twin turbos. 

 
I broke axles twice in my Funco. Right at 7 years each time. Went to 934s and bigger axles. Would never want to go back.

 
A lot more than just wheel Hp.

torque, weight, paddle size, driving style etc. 

If you are talking about going twin turbo ls with 930s. That does not sound like a good idea.

 
I sheared two 930 axles with a LS1 in a 4 seat SCU Little bro. And no i don't clutch dump and drive like an idiot. Went to 934s and never had a problem

 
so being blunt -

Not all 930's are created equal as not all drivers are created equal.  IMO the 930 axles are not the weak link - assuming they are properly heat treated 300m, the CV size just can't dissipate the heat when you have lots of axle angle, from my experience that liquifies the grease faster and eats the stars.  

Many 930's are Chromo and Not 300M, and they will definitely have a shorter life, but I think you will break stars before Axles unless they are 300m

That being said the weight, the TQ and Paddle size (air pressure) along with driving style will eventually do in the 930's they usually break where they twist most right at the splines.  That could be 5-10 years, and I have seen 934's break faster on heavy cars. 

I have run very close to 900 Engine HP and Over 1000 Ft TQ through 930/30 axles (most 930's are 28spline)   with a 2000lb car and 33 Pro large paddle tires, and did it for many seasons.  I did it to keep rotating mass down and improve acceleration and throttle response and for that and being half the weight,  its superior to 934's.  BUT the caveat is the only one's I know making 930/30's is RCV and cost of the Axles and CV's with 300m  stars and cages  is about 10% less than 934's if you buy decent CV's like the Gear Ones'

IMO unless you are going all new 930 (and 930/30 only) and doing it because you want to save weight and out accelerate cars with 2x the HP, you are better off going with good 934 300M axles and if you can afford it good REM polished and Cryo'ed CV's and if you can't "econo" 934's with Chromo cages will likely hold up fine on a light car without 35.5 or 36 paddles

the move to 934's is pretty costly especially if you already have 930 Mid boards. If you have 930 Microstubs even the 3.60 bearing you can swap the stubs and get away cheaper, but note the 3.60 bearing will not hold up under the extra rotating mass of the 934's they will wear out, and 27 spline will not be strong enough for the extra mass of 934's  - going Midboard with the 934 swap is really smart (and expensive). But remember doing it right means Lots of new expensive (Inflation)  parts - new Trans stub axles, New CV's  new bolts, new boots, new axles and new Midboards  of Microstubs, and you have to make sure you have clearance for all that

when you add up the cost its usually over 5K to start

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Fullthrottleguy said:
so being blunt -

Not all 930's are created equal as not all drivers are created equal.  IMO the 930 axles are not the weak link - assuming they are properly heat treated 300m, the CV size just can't dissipate the heat when you have lots of axle angle, from my experience that liquifies the grease faster and eats the stars.  

Many 930's are Chromo and Not 300M, and they will definitely have a shorter life, but I think you will break stars before Axles unless they are 300m

That being said the weight, the TQ and Paddle size (air pressure) along with driving style will eventually do in the 930's they usually break where they twist most right at the splines.  That could be 5-10 years, and I have seen 934's break faster on heavy cars. 

I have run very close to 900 Engine HP and Over 1000 Ft TQ through 930/30 axles (most 930's are 28spline)   with a 2000lb car and 33 Pro large paddle tires, and did it for many seasons.  I did it to keep rotating mass down and improve acceleration and throttle response and for that and being half the weight,  its superior to 934's.  BUT the caveat is the only one's I know making 930/30's is RCV and cost of the Axles and CV's with 300m  stars and cages  is about 10% less than 934's if you buy decent CV's like the Gear Ones'

IMO unless you are going all new 930 (and 930/30 only) and doing it because you want to save weight and out accelerate cars with 2x the HP, you are better off going with good 934 300M axles and if you can afford it good REM polished and Cryo'ed CV's and if you can't "econo" 934's with Chromo cages will likely hold up fine on a light car without 35.5 or 36 paddles

the move to 934's is pretty costly especially if you already have 930 Mid boards. If you have 930 Microstubs even the 3.60 bearing you can swap the stubs and get away cheaper, but note the 3.60 bearing will not hold up under the extra rotating mass of the 934's they will wear out, and 27 spline will not be strong enough for the extra mass of 934's  - going Midboard with the 934 swap is really smart (and expensive). But remember doing it right means Lots of new expensive (Inflation)  parts - new Trans stub axles, New CV's  new bolts, new boots, new axles and new Midboards  of Microstubs, and you have to make sure you have clearance for all that

when you add up the cost its usually over 5K to start
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This was the exact response i was hoping for before because i remember you taking this stance on a thread i read a long time ago. My current car is around 2000 pounds i would guess, cbm 415 ls motor putting out 450 to the wheels. Tatum mid board hubs. 33 inch paddles. I am not sure what kind of axles and cages they are currently. I remember your thread in particular which is what made me think it was possible to do it without having to go to the 934 mid boards and fab the trailing arm and everything. Kind of a snowball upgrade. Have a buddy that has a twin turbo setup and got me thinking

 
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