5 link setup/ spherical rod end replacement

Five.five-six

Five.five-six

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so after doing this to my car, I decided to replace all my heims

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I fixed this

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and I finally got my replacement trailing arm.... from my buddy who would "whip one right out for me"  sigh, it's been 3 months and Kartek would have had it done next day but I digress.

It's boating season and I need this car to be done before I switch gears.  So, I get the thing all together and I can feel the CV bind up and lock at full droop.  I make a bunch of adjustments and get it to turn 100% freely at full droop but now I'm not sure on the alignment.  I really have no idea what I'm doing.  can I get some guidance or do I pay someone top straighten this crap out?  I do have the heims changed on 1/2 of the car.  once I figure it out, I'm thinking I can do the passenger 1/2 in a Saturday + a few hours.   

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What adjustments did you make to get the CV to stop binding? I assume the other side is fine? If so, measure and compare

 
Rockwood said:
What adjustments did you make to get the CV to stop binding? I assume the other side is fine? If so, measure and compare
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Yea, I did a bunch of mesuree and compare, stare and compare but that also assumes that the chassis was set up square 23 years ago and hasn't bent any in the mean time.

I shortened up the lower rear rod a bunch and that got it moving. does it need to be 100% buttery smooth at full droop or is a little bump every few rotations acceptable?

I have it buttery smooth but it seems the break disk is toes out about 1/8" over 11"  I know this just sand, so it shouldn't be rocket surgery.  

 
Looks like an SU 5 link?

Make sure you cycle the suspension entirely to make sure that you didn't mess up the axle length. When I changed all my ends I did that and ended up tearing the link tabs off my frame because it made the axles too short. The shortest distance for the axle measurement was almost dead even (in the middle of the cycle).

If you're in the San Diego area I would take it to Roger Daniels alignment and have them dial the rear end for you. I had several people play with it but the rear end always wandered.

 
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LegitDuner said:
Looks like an SU 5 link?

Make sure you cycle the suspension entirely to make sure that you didn't mess up the axle length. When I changed all my ends I did that and ended up tearing the link tabs off my frame because it made the axles too short. The shortest distance for the axle measurement was almost dead even (in the middle of the cycle).

If you're in the San Diego area I would take it to Roger Daniels alignment and have them dial the rear end for you. I had several people play with it but the rear end always wandered.
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Correction. It was almost full bump where axle was closest. 

 
LegitDuner said:
Correction. It was almost full bump where axle was closest. 
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Should be when the cups are even with each other. 

@Five.five-six I’d string the car and measure toe, etc, at ride height. Get everything zero’d out as much as possible, especially toe (a little toe in is preferred)

 
As mentioned in other threads, I did 5 foot forward of hub to center line of chassis, 1/4 to 1/2 toed at ride height in is ideal. Granted this was on trailing arms not sure this link style should be any different. 

 
Yes, it’s a SU five link.  I’ll try watching some YouTube videos. See if I can figure out what I’m doing. Otherwise, I probably need to pay someone to set it up for me.

 
Five.five-six said:
Yes, it’s a SU five link.  I’ll try watching some YouTube videos. See if I can figure out what I’m doing. Otherwise, I probably need to pay someone to set it up for me.
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I think you need to start with finding the center line of the chassis with a string. Then determine if right side and left side are exactly the same everything. Then compare each link length and cycle both sides simultaneously. I bet one link is longer somewhere changing your geometry as it cycles. This is what I would do. Good luck. 

 
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