So I upgraded from a 19' Superlite TH with anti-sway bar to a 28' Blazn Toy Hauler. Towing with a 02 Supercrew long bed F350 w Leveling Kit and I installed airbags just to help (which it did night and day) But first time to Glamis with this set up and man this thing can start to sway at times and got worse when the wind picked up. I would have to hit the brake controller at times to bring it back from swaying. Can sway bars be installed on these longer heavier toy haulers or am I doing something wrong with the leveling bars? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
28' Toy Hauler Swayin!
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ANGRYBUTTCRACK
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- May 6, 2021
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What ever is in the trailer (weight) needs to be as far forward as possible.
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ANGRYBUTTCRACK
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I used a winch in my sand car box and winched it in backwards.. even when it wasn't broken. You probably need to back it in .. Get as much weight forward and don't store anything 'heavy' near the rear of your TH.
I learned the 'hard way' a long time ago with an 11' flatbed.. all the big quads on the back, had to pull over and move everything. I couldn't get past 45mph without it dancing all over the road.. moved the weight forward and could go 75mph no problem.
abc
I learned the 'hard way' a long time ago with an 11' flatbed.. all the big quads on the back, had to pull over and move everything. I couldn't get past 45mph without it dancing all over the road.. moved the weight forward and could go 75mph no problem.
abc
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Moparman
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- May 5, 2021
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I have a friend who had a blazn'n like yours and he had to keep the fresh water tanks full and a 4seat RZR backed in , it was the only way to stop the swaying.
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Hard to imagine that my subaru 2.5 sand rail weighs more then a 4 seat RZR. I am taking trailer to shop anyways tomorrow for brake check and bearing repack and will ask if a anti sway bar will help. I just watched some YT vids of swayin trailers gone bad and it scared the Eff out of me. Might just have to do the damn loading tire swap on rail so I can back it in. Better safe then sorry. Thanks guys for chiming in.
Shiggins37
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The longer 2 axle trailers have to be loaded just right…. I had a 30’ bumper pull Tahoe transport that was triple axle and I never even used the sway bar on the hitch…. Tracked straight as an arrow no matter how it was loaded. She sure didn’t like to turn though!
Dockmaster
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When you say a sway bar are you talking about a sway control like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Eaz-Lift-48380-Right-Passenger-Control/dp/B007HRIVMI/ref=sr_1_2?crid=14R2EA37LV5ZJ&keywords=sway+control&qid=1636687676&qsid=142-0217362-0441156&sprefix=Sway+control%2Caps%2C247&sr=8-2&sres=B007HRIVMI%2CB000HLO7QA%2CB0016KJ5MC%2CB004TR8F5C%2CB004RCT0LM%2CB00NB1J0ZQ%2CB0071XQ4V8%2CB005SB6S3Y%2CB00ED7ZR04%2CB005JQNPG6%2CB003VAX5NA%2CB004RCSKPO%2CB01M36IGYG%2CB00FLXF34Y%2CB0071L3SO6%2CB00CI8SLL2%2CB00NB1EEFM%2CB00O46ZO02%2CB004TR8PU2%2CB07YLBJNX9
These really do help quite a bit. And if you can’t get your car in farther or turned around, just add some weight up forward. Are you carrying anything on the tongue? Fuel or water or something? A couple hundred pounds all the way forward could make a huge difference.
https://www.amazon.com/Eaz-Lift-48380-Right-Passenger-Control/dp/B007HRIVMI/ref=sr_1_2?crid=14R2EA37LV5ZJ&keywords=sway+control&qid=1636687676&qsid=142-0217362-0441156&sprefix=Sway+control%2Caps%2C247&sr=8-2&sres=B007HRIVMI%2CB000HLO7QA%2CB0016KJ5MC%2CB004TR8F5C%2CB004RCT0LM%2CB00NB1J0ZQ%2CB0071XQ4V8%2CB005SB6S3Y%2CB00ED7ZR04%2CB005JQNPG6%2CB003VAX5NA%2CB004RCSKPO%2CB01M36IGYG%2CB00FLXF34Y%2CB0071L3SO6%2CB00CI8SLL2%2CB00NB1EEFM%2CB00O46ZO02%2CB004TR8PU2%2CB07YLBJNX9
These really do help quite a bit. And if you can’t get your car in farther or turned around, just add some weight up forward. Are you carrying anything on the tongue? Fuel or water or something? A couple hundred pounds all the way forward could make a huge difference.
Jersey_Jeff73
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- May 6, 2021
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good tires on the trailer not Lt tires light truck ST special trailer they have a heavier side wall and as everyone said need to load as much weight forward
5desertrats
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yup ...... gotta get more weight forward. that is the only "safe" solution!
Deviantduner
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- May 10, 2021
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Also what tires do you have on truck?
D rated are trash for towing, and tell will wag your ass all over the freeway above 55, E rated batter, F rated and you won’t need sway bars anymore
load trailer even or front heavy
sway bars will help, but look at tires first
I used to run Toyo RTs on 3rd set dumb Effs ordered wrong tires and gave me D rated beginning of summer, my boats don’t care what tire I have on truck. Winter comes and glamis time, load up rail in trailer that I used to be able to pull at 80 plus with no sway. Suddenly felt like I someone swapped out my trailer. Tires to many miles for dealer to help. Lesson learned. Now I only run AT3 extremes F rated. No sway regardless how I load
D rated are trash for towing, and tell will wag your ass all over the freeway above 55, E rated batter, F rated and you won’t need sway bars anymore
load trailer even or front heavy
sway bars will help, but look at tires first
I used to run Toyo RTs on 3rd set dumb Effs ordered wrong tires and gave me D rated beginning of summer, my boats don’t care what tire I have on truck. Winter comes and glamis time, load up rail in trailer that I used to be able to pull at 80 plus with no sway. Suddenly felt like I someone swapped out my trailer. Tires to many miles for dealer to help. Lesson learned. Now I only run AT3 extremes F rated. No sway regardless how I load
Crusty
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BaBaBouy
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Tons of good info here. I’m a believer in anti-sway bars, even if they’re used to solve a symptom instead of a problem (incorrect tires / weight distribution). If you go that route remember to stop and loosen them up once you get off the asphalt and on the dirt (whoops / uneven terrain) looking for a campsite.
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Tires on trailer and F350 are E rated. In fact Big O tires would not even sell me a D rate for the truck. All tires are brand new, but will post pics after I get trailer back from shop for brakes and bearing repack. Spoke to shop and they said absolutely run at least one friction sway bar (which I bought). He also said you can run 2 if need be but to try one first.
You need to go visit a CAT scale and get some good numbers so you know what's going on. Weight truck without trailer than truck and trailer. As already stated sounds like you have a center of gravity problem with your trailer.
Have you towed the trailer unloaded to verify it's a loading problem?
Have you towed the trailer unloaded to verify it's a loading problem?
MWB
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- May 3, 2021
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As a guy who has gone down this road believe me when I say " Weight Distribution is Key"
Friction sway control helps.
Properly set up truck Helps
Properly set up hitch helps
Weigh Distribution is key though. I notice on my trailer a difference in handling between full and empty waste tanks.
After I got the new truck I went thru and adjusted my weight distribution bars to get them working properly, I then adjusted my air bags to get them so they were not doing to much or to little of the lifting. Then I backed the car in as far forward as I could. I had it all set up with empty water and waste tanks. The trailer was perfectly level. I then lowered the tongue jack so it just touched the ground(actually a 2X4) then I filled it up the fresh water tank. the front of the trailer went down a little bit. I then put 20 gallons of water in the black tank. Front end now was down on top of the 2X4 to the point I couldn't get it out. Pulled the car out and turned it around and pulled in forward. There was a 3/4" gap now between the jack and the 2X4.
That was with a Yamaha YXZ in this set up
The trailer and truck pulled awesome with it backed in> just make sure the friction sway bar is tight at every stop and make sure the car is tied down and will not move.
This year I changed from the Yamaha to the X-3, I made sure I had a half a tank of waste water in the black tank and when I loaded the car up I checked things again and the heavier car didn't move the distance between the jack and the 2X4 as much as I thought it would. Trailer still towed just fine.
Friction sway control helps.
Properly set up truck Helps
Properly set up hitch helps
Weigh Distribution is key though. I notice on my trailer a difference in handling between full and empty waste tanks.
After I got the new truck I went thru and adjusted my weight distribution bars to get them working properly, I then adjusted my air bags to get them so they were not doing to much or to little of the lifting. Then I backed the car in as far forward as I could. I had it all set up with empty water and waste tanks. The trailer was perfectly level. I then lowered the tongue jack so it just touched the ground(actually a 2X4) then I filled it up the fresh water tank. the front of the trailer went down a little bit. I then put 20 gallons of water in the black tank. Front end now was down on top of the 2X4 to the point I couldn't get it out. Pulled the car out and turned it around and pulled in forward. There was a 3/4" gap now between the jack and the 2X4.
That was with a Yamaha YXZ in this set up
The trailer and truck pulled awesome with it backed in> just make sure the friction sway bar is tight at every stop and make sure the car is tied down and will not move.
This year I changed from the Yamaha to the X-3, I made sure I had a half a tank of waste water in the black tank and when I loaded the car up I checked things again and the heavier car didn't move the distance between the jack and the 2X4 as much as I thought it would. Trailer still towed just fine.
