2008 Tatum LS7 Pre Runner Sand Rail

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ironhide07

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Hello, I’m new to this forum, but I know a little about glamis, I’m looking for this 2008 Tatum pre runner LS7, it was my dad’s growing up as a kid and he sold it to a guy in AZ the last I knew of it, this would’ve been some 10 or so years ago, but that’s the latest I’ve known of it, here’s a couple photos, I’d love to know if anyone has seen it or knows about it, thank you!
 

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Welcome to the forum. Just to add to the questions here. What has to be done if you are purchasing an older rail like this in terms of inspections, etc. I would assume compression leaked down the standard stuff but how do you test to make sure the trades are good the shock don’t need to be rebuilt, etc.?
 
RiverDave said:
Welcome to the forum. Just to add to the questions here. What has to be done if you are purchasing an older rail like this in terms of inspections, etc. I would assume compression leaked down the standard stuff but how do you test to make sure the trades are good the shock don’t need to be rebuilt, etc.?
Click to expand...
Just call LRS to do an inspection. Leave it to the pros, i say.
 
RiverDave said:
Welcome to the forum. Just to add to the questions here. What has to be done if you are purchasing an older rail like this in terms of inspections, etc. I would assume compression leaked down the standard stuff but how do you test to make sure the trades are good the shock don’t need to be rebuilt, etc.?
Click to expand...
Assume it’s all effed and will need to be gone through.
 
Congratulations on your car,
The pictures taken was from me at Dumont,
Car at that time was owned by Ronnie from Ideal Mechanical, Ron wife hated the dunes and he sold the car, it was a amazing car back then, I think that car was originally built for Terrible Herbst
Might have all the original pictures for you, if i do i will send them over,

When Ron purchased the car, it was only drove a couple of times he had a mosebuilt before this car, the Tatum had a Factory LS7 and a Albins, not sure if it ever got fixed but had a small dent in the hood from the stacker trailer hitting a fold up table,
 
J Alper said:
Congratulations on your car,
The pictures taken was from me at Dumont,
Car at that time was owned by Ronnie from Ideal Mechanical, Ron wife hated the dunes and he sold the car, it was a amazing car back then, I think that car was originally built for Terrible Herbst
Might have all the original pictures for you, if i do i will send them over,
Click to expand...
I appreciate it I’d love to have those photos, I don’t own it sadly. I’m looking for it, Ron is my dad, I’m looking to try and get his rail back and have been searching for it.
 
For this car,
I would assume the midboards need to be maintained, Dry Sump motor so should be good, check oil pressure and leak down, if it still is a ls7 DrySump,
If it still has a Albins, get the serial number, call Weddle and get the history,

So if everything checks out,
New owner should
  1. Rebuild Midboards,
  2. Grease front 2'' hollows
  3. Replace CV's so they are fresh,
  4. Rebuild shocks
  5. Replace suspension bushings
  6. Check Heims / replace
  7. Oil change
  8. Spark Plugs and Wires
  9. Clean Air Filters
  10. Trans Fluid Change,
  11. Clean Fuel Filters,
  12. Wash out fuel tank replace foam.
  13. Pressure up the radiator and check for leaks
  14. change brake fluid, bleed brakes
  15. replace lug nuts, and check all hardware,
  16. Replace Idler and Tensioner pulley or bearings
I had to do this on my car being 3 yeas ago,, If you are the new owner or even if you have not done this is a couple of years, this should be a solid list to keep you in the dunes
 
J Alper said:
For this car,
I would assume the midboards need to be maintained, Dry Sump motor so should be good, check oil pressure and leak down, if it still is a ls7 DrySump,
If it still has a Albins, get the serial number, call Weddle and get the history,

So if everything checks out,
New owner should
  1. Rebuild Midboards,
  2. Grease front 2'' hollows
  3. Replace CV's so they are fresh,
  4. Rebuild shocks
  5. Replace suspension bushings
  6. Check Heims / replace
  7. Oil change
  8. Spark Plugs and Wires
  9. Clean Air Filters
  10. Trans Fluid Change,
  11. Clean Fuel Filters,
  12. Wash out fuel tank replace foam.
  13. Pressure up the radiator and check for leaks
  14. change brake fluid, bleed brakes
  15. replace lug nuts, and check all hardware,
  16. Replace Idler and Tensioner pulley or bearings
I had to do this on my car being 3 yeas ago,, If you are the new owner or even if you have not done this is a couple of years, this should be a solid list to keep you in the dunes
Click to expand...
Yes sir, thank you I will make sure to keep this for future reference, but I’m still trying to find the rail, I don’t own it, but I’d love to if I can find it.
 
J Alper said:
For this car,
I would assume the midboards need to be maintained, Dry Sump motor so should be good, check oil pressure and leak down, if it still is a ls7 DrySump,
If it still has a Albins, get the serial number, call Weddle and get the history,

So if everything checks out,
New owner should
  1. Rebuild Midboards,
  2. Grease front 2'' hollows
  3. Replace CV's so they are fresh,
  4. Rebuild shocks
  5. Replace suspension bushings
  6. Check Heims / replace
  7. Oil change
  8. Spark Plugs and Wires
  9. Clean Air Filters
  10. Trans Fluid Change,
  11. Clean Fuel Filters,
  12. Wash out fuel tank replace foam.
  13. Pressure up the radiator and check for leaks
  14. change brake fluid, bleed brakes
  15. replace lug nuts, and check all hardware,
  16. Replace Idler and Tensioner pulley or bearings
I had to do this on my car being 3 yeas ago,, If you are the new owner or even if you have not done this is a couple of years, this should be a solid list to keep you in the dunes
Click to expand...

Stupid question what are “mid boards?”
 
RiverDave said:
Stupid question what are “mid boards?”
Click to expand...
A sandrail rear hub is a micro-stub or a mid-board, or as @parker@gearone would call them center-board. There are also out-board hubs. They are called this because of where the CV is located in the hub. Micro-stub hubs have the CVs in-board of the hub, mid-board (center-board) have the CV's in the middle (center) of the hub and out-boards have the CV on the outside of the hub.
 
They are a rear style of brakes, where the bearings ride onto the CV housing allowing the axle to be longer than a Microstub brake kit, a Microstub brake kit is what you would see on the front of a 4wd vehicle but used in the back or what a independent rears suspension like a corvette would be
 

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