What Batteries do you run?

acefuture

acefuture

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When I bought my car I had 2 Odyssey ODS-AGM42L group 26 batteries. They were on their last legs, so I put 1 single Full Throttle FT560 in it. That battery didn't make it through 2 seasons. Now I need some new batteries and plan on putting 2 new ones in. My battery tray is built around these specific group 26 sized batteries unfortunately so I need to stick with that. Kartek suggested the Total Power TP1200. If anyone is running a group 26 battery or two, what are you running?
 
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Good ole red top Optima.

Those small batteries don't last, don't know why builders keep using/designing around them.
Not saying the Optima's are 10000% better, butttttttt.
 
Over the years I’ve had them all and seems like I’ve had the best luck with odysseys. The more crap you have constantly running the more important that you have the right size alternator. New to me car has dual odysseys, but also has a legit battery disconnect and a 250amp alternator. I also plan on wiring in the cables for a tender and plugging it in overnight on desert trips to make sure things are staying topped off since it has a bunch of electronics.

Kartek had recommended full throttle as the new good stuff. Put one in my old school VW buggy and has been in for over a year with no disconnect and still reads 12.9v… but this car has dang near zero electronics other than a starter and 1 wired whip.
 
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New Car has the Full Throttle AGM's installed, don't know much about them but if Extreme trust them then I'm sure they'll work fine.
 
Running a Total Power 1200. Starts my cold-blooded motor fine and has been accidentally killed to not even powering LEDs twice. This is my second TP1200 in about 10 years. First one lasted about 7.

Biggest thing for any battery is a float charger, or at minimum a disconnect (especially if you have 2 batteries). They can only stand so much slow drain, and 2 batteries will continuously charge each other until they go flat.

Keep in mind it's a U1 code battery, so won't be an exact replacement for group 26s.
 
In my experience those full throttle batteries don't like to be abused. Mine were bulging at 2 years, they sat a lot..
Now I just get whatever fits and is reasonably priced
 
I am on my second odyssey in 4 years. First one did get hit with an axle and survived but I changed it in the last off season. Still have issues with the new if I dont keep a float charger on it. Will work great all weekend but it the car sits for 4+ days, it will need a jump.
 
Rockwood said:
Running a Total Power 1200. Starts my cold-blooded motor fine and has been accidentally killed to not even powering LEDs twice. This is my second TP1200 in about 10 years. First one lasted about 7.

Biggest thing for any battery is a float charger, or at minimum a disconnect (especially if you have 2 batteries). They can only stand so much slow drain, and 2 batteries will continuously charge each other until they go flat.

Keep in mind it's a U1 code battery, so won't be an exact replacement for group 26s.
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Maybe this will be my next choice then. I have a legit disconnect. Problem is with the car in storage, I don't have the opportunity to put a trickle charger on them. I also have a direct wire for my computer that may be the source of my slow drain. May need to run that through the disconnect switch as well.
 
LegitDuner said:
In my experience those full throttle batteries don't like to be abused. Mine were bulging at 2 years, they sat a lot..
Now I just get whatever fits and is reasonably priced
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classic sign of overcharging.

and this is the problem with these dry cell AGM type batteries, they were never designed to be used with high output automotive charging systems.

sure there are all these claims from battery manufacturers about these new small, lightweight wiz-bang batteries and car builder like them becasue its much easier from a packaging perspective due to the small footprint. but the reality is they dont hold up, but they dont care becasue you buy another one and its not the chassis builders problem either.........

stick to go old gel cell traditional chemistry batteries and save all the headaches from these other batteries for everyone else.
 
ChasingSand said:
I am on my second odyssey in 4 years. First one did get hit with an axle and survived but I changed it in the last off season. Still have issues with the new if I dont keep a float charger on it. Will work great all weekend but it the car sits for 4+ days, it will need a jump.
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Get it tested? Could just be a defective battery, or parasitic draw.

acefuture said:
Maybe this will be my next choice then. I have a legit disconnect. Problem is with the car in storage, I don't have the opportunity to put a trickle charger on them. I also have a direct wire for my computer that may be the source of my slow drain. May need to run that through the disconnect switch as well.
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Yeah, I'd run it all there if you can. Granted, the less than a quarter amp draw when off on Terminators shouldn't be killing batteries, but if it's sitting, it's sitting.

Do you have a single ground for both batteries, or are they tied to the same lug?
 
daveH said:
classic sign of overcharging.

and this is the problem with these dry cell AGM type batteries, they were never designed to be used with high output automotive charging systems.

sure there are all these claims from battery manufacturers about these new small, lightweight wiz-bang batteries and car builder like them becasue its much easier from a packaging perspective due to the small footprint. but the reality is they dont hold up, but they dont care becasue you buy another one and its not the chassis builders problem either.........

stick to go old gel cell traditional chemistry batteries and save all the headaches from these other batteries for everyone else.
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AGM isn't a dry battery... Absorbed is literally in the name.

They also have a higher maximum charge voltage (15.0 vs. 14.4-14.7), and the same fully charged voltage.

AGMs usually bulge because a cell died and you've overcharged the remaining cells.
 
on my 4th season with a red top, never charge it, rarely start it between trips. way better than the 2 little guys that were in the rear.
to make it fit and accessible I did have to re-locate battery to in front of passenger foot well, that allowed me to put a master switch under dash that I can reach buckled in, it cost a little bit in new battery cable but not as much as new battery's every 2 years!
 
Rockwood said:
Get it tested? Could just be a defective battery, or parasitic draw.


Yeah, I'd run it all there if you can. Granted, the less than a quarter amp draw when off on Terminators shouldn't be killing batteries, but if it's sitting, it's sitting.

Do you have a single ground for both batteries, or are they tied to the same lug?
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2 separate grounds. One to chassis, and one to chassis that is at the engine mounts for redundant ground to block.

I had the computer wire direct to the battery so it wouldn't have to go through the "relearn" process when started again. But I think it should store even if I run it through the switch
 
acefuture said:
2 separate grounds. One to chassis, and one to chassis that is at the engine mounts for redundant ground to block.

I had the computer wire direct to the battery so it wouldn't have to go through the "relearn" process when started again. But I think it should store even if I run it through the switch
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Yeah, the self learning may/may not go away. Could always save it prior and reload if it goes away.

By 2 grounds: is one battery going to chassis, the other to the mount? If so, I’d try to tie it directly to the engine, and carry it forward to the chassis ground. If not, there can be some noise from ground loop.
 
Full throttle is a brand built by Full River. Full River has supplied some amazing sealed AGM batteries for myself and clients. I haven't tried the Full Throttle batteries yet as they are just off on size for the odysseys I am running
 
Total Power 1500...I got 7 years out of my last one and 4 on the current one.
 
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