Shifter adjustment on Mendeola E model transmission

[Mark1981]

Hello, I’m having some issues with my buggy shifting that I wanna see if you guys can help on. It’s an E box transmission (Rear engine) with a bug pack shifter. I recently had the transmission refreshed and the builder upgraded the rear nose cone from an E model style to a 2-D style. It looks as though it’s a little bit longer. I need to adjust the shift linkage. However, it’s a one piece shaft and I’m unsure how to adjust this. If I rotate the shaft, the hole next to the u-joint won’t line up with the hole on the shifter shaft on the transmission to hold it in place. It doesn’t look like there any adjustment to be made in the shifter box just the front of the shaft. Have any of you ever come across this?



I did several searches and wasn’t able to find anything pertaining to one piece linkage.



I appreciate your time and replies.

 

[John@Outfront]

You do have adjusting nuts at the shifter for right and left. However before you do that the shifter handle must be perpendicular to the shifter box while in neutral. You may have to lengthen or shorten the overall length of shaft by disconnecting the joint at back and give a few full turns. If it can’t be shortened anymore you may need to remove shaft and cut the long nut down some more

 

[Mark1981]

Ok. Makes sense.

I’ll disconnect it and see how much shorter I can get it.

Appreciate the reply.

Mark

 

[Rockwood]

After you adjust the length, to get the shifter into the right spot left/right, I put the transmission in first (clockwise facing the transmission and in), then push the shifter left against the stop, and tighten the jam nut. Start the engine and confirm you can speed shift from 3rd to 2nd without grabbing reverse or nothing (between the legs of the H). If it’s grabbing reverse, the shifter is rotating too much. If nothing, it needs to go clock wise (again: facing the trans).

Nothing more frustrating than a VW style trans shifter that keeps getting into the reverse gate when downshifting for a dune.

 

[SeanRitchie]

A few things to keep in mind:

1. There is no difference in E-box and 2D nosecones, they are both VW Type 1 nosecones and the same externally with the exception that the "2D" nosecone has been machined internally for the larger mainshaft bearing.

2. There is such a thing as a Type 1 shift shaft (hockey stick) and a Type 3 shift shaft, which are identical except the set screw holes are in different locations. It's possible it had one before the service, then a new one installed afterwards that changes this set screw location. If this is the case, you may need to make a new shift rod or modify the one you have to accommodate.

3. If your E-box was converted to a 2D (your wallet will be a lot lighter), the 2D is 3/4" longer than the E-box, so you would need to shorted the shift rod between shifter and transmission.

 

[Mark1981]

Great information, appreciate the replies. I was under the impression they were different lengths. My E box was not upgraded to a 2D. I just run a NA Honda 3.2, I just had it freshened up. I need to try going through the adjustment procedure prior to worrying about shortening the shaft. Thanks for the tips Rockwood, first time doing this but I’ll figure it out.

Thank you