6.0 delete and bulletproof requirements?

TheSPAINishLover

TheSPAINishLover

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I have the opportunity to pick up a sub 50k-mile '05 Excursion Limited. The thing is immaculate and has always been garaged. The interior is flawless...there aren't even stretch marks on the seats.

So, for those of you who have done it, will you please share what an actually delete and bulletproof job consists of and what you paid? I'm TN so emissions are not an issue.

If I buy this truck (which I most likely will), I want to educate myself on what to ask for when asking for a "complete and bulletproof" job. I'm sure the shops know but I want to sound like I know what I'm talking about.

To have an 8-seater for my son and all my hoodrats' kids would be awesome!
 
look at ficm upgrades also, someone on here had a 6.0 for a long time, can't remember his name. alot of it depends on the shop doing it.

parts include the EGR\EGR Cooler, Oil Cooler, FICM, and finally head studs. If I remember correctly the heads themselves and lack of an extra head stud were the main reasons for spitting head gaskets, then there's injector issues. But hell some people get lucky, my buddies step dad had a 6.0 with over 200k on it and did nothing other than an alternator, but he drove it as a pilot truck so it was on the road daily.
good luck, sounds clean.
hell if the 6.0 goes, do a cummins conversion, that's the hot ticket, or was
 
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I know someone who had a 6.0, and never had one problem with it.

Why?

She left it bone stock. 👍🏼
 
Here's a list of everything to do it. Remember, even if you do the bulletproof mods, the buyer pool when you sell is very small. Many won't touch a 6.0 no matter what. I'm a die hard Ford truck guy and I won't buy one.

bulletproofdiesel.com

Bullet-Proof Your Ford 6.0L

HOW TO BULLET PROOF YOUR 6.0L FORD We have provided this easy-to-follow Road Map to Bullet Proof Diesel products that leads to Reliability and Peace-of-Mind for you and your 6.0L Ford. The First Step in Reliability: Address These Five Pattern Failures These five pattern failures are the main...
bulletproofdiesel.com bulletproofdiesel.com
 
Dockmaster said:
Here's a list of everything to do it. Remember, even if you do the bulletproof mods, the buyer pool when you sell is very small. Many won't touch a 6.0 no matter what. I'm a die hard Ford truck guy and I won't buy one.

bulletproofdiesel.com

Bullet-Proof Your Ford 6.0L

HOW TO BULLET PROOF YOUR 6.0L FORD We have provided this easy-to-follow Road Map to Bullet Proof Diesel products that leads to Reliability and Peace-of-Mind for you and your 6.0L Ford. The First Step in Reliability: Address These Five Pattern Failures These five pattern failures are the main...
bulletproofdiesel.com bulletproofdiesel.com
Click to expand...
Thanks.

Will the delete and bulletproofing mitigate the issue of short drives? Like 2-3 mile drives one-way? I've read that short drives are/were a killer of the DPF/EGR and hence the motor.

I found that website last night. Their closest installer is about a 3-hour drive. Not bad.
 
I had a 6.0 excursion that was bulletproofed for nearly 7 years. I also have an f350 with a 7.3. Save time money and heart ache and buy a 7.3
It will cost you 8-10k to properly bulletproof a 6.0 and you will still have issues.

Issues.
-Head bolts. Too thin and too few. Arp sells upgraded studs, only proper way to install is to pull the cab or motor. You cannot get proper leverage in the truck
-egr cooler, they fail and they clog. Factory case castings were notorious for not being properly flushed (full of sand). The factory coolers are made like garbage and clog from fouled coolant or fail where the cooler lines attach to end tanks.
-oil cooler the oil cooler suffers from the same problems as the egr cooler. Failed design and clogging.
Egr design itself. The later intake manifolds have a butterfly valve that Clogs from soot.
-fuel pump failures. The in tank pickup design sucks and promotes cavitation which will result in air in fuel, which will overheat pump and ruin it, it will also ruin your injectors.
-ficm fuel injection control module needs a constant voltage to work properly. It needs a MINIMUM 10 volts to fire; though recommend never getting that low. It converts that 10v to 48v on the output side. Any bad or weak grounds bad or weak batteries will ruin your ficm.
-cam the cam is what most people dont know is the huge weakspot on all 6.0 they fail and fail often grenading the whole motor.

I was in your same position years ago. A super clean super nice excursion 75k mile 6.0 for only $9k!

Well; bulletproofing 10k$ and over the course of 7 years of ownership over 26k$ in repairs
(Full set of factory injectors twice, hpop, dropped tank for hutch/harpoon mod, 2 factory fuel pump assemblies, 1 turbo, were the major repairs i had done post bulletproof)
The 6.0 is VERY HARD to properly diagnose. It cannot be done without live driving diagnostics and someone that knows the systems

I’ve owned my 7.3 for a few years longer. And have only had a starter go bad. Not a single problem with the 7.3.

Fwiw i sold it and bought a gen 1 toyota sequoia (2005) and i absolutely love this thing. It feels just as big as excursion inside but wheels like a smaller suv. Maint has been minimal. Why
Go diesel with excursion if not towing 17k lbs?
 
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rivermobster said:
I know someone who had a 6.0, and never had one problem with it.

Why?

She left it bone stock. 👍🏼
Click to expand...
My father was the worst at maintaining vehicles. He didnt change oil a single time in 80k miles with a 12 valve. He had an 03 6.0 and miraculously in 75k miles not a single problem. And he totally neglected it. I still had to practically give it away when i sold it for him. I think we got 6k$ for it
I got 13k$ after 4 months of selling our super clean 170k mile 04 excursion
 
zilla68 said:
look at ficm upgrades also, someone on here had a 6.0 for a long time, can't remember his name. alot of it depends on the shop doing it.

parts include the EGR\EGR Cooler, Oil Cooler, FICM, and finally head studs. If I remember correctly the heads themselves and lack of an extra head stud were the main reasons for spitting head gaskets, then there's injector issues. But hell some people get lucky, my buddies step dad had a 6.0 with over 200k on it and did nothing other than an alternator, but he drove it as a pilot truck so it was on the road daily.
good luck, sounds clean.
hell if the 6.0 goes, do a cummins conversion, that's the hot ticket, or was
Click to expand...
If my excursion didnt sell this was the plan. Its about 15k$ to swap plus cost of motor
 
Much thanks for the details.

I read several similar recommendations/advice.

This sucks.
 
TheSPAINishLover said:
Much thanks for the details.

I read several similar recommendations/advice.

This sucks.
Click to expand...
i think the biggest hurdle is finding a GREAT shop, they all advertise they do it, but very few are trustworthy, but with you in Tenn, I bet you have some good shops there to pick from.
 
Also
One thought is what are you doing with the Vehicle, Mine was a 04, I never had a problem with the tuck unless you towed with it,
With the extra weight, it would eat itself alive,
Major now towing issues was the FICM, the Ficm is the fuel injection ecm, and it is mounted right next to the turbo and starts to melt the computer chips,

I had a issue with 4 Factory ECM, then went to a 6 unit ficm, the factory has 4, with the 6 it has 2 spare chips inside, so i never had a issue
bulletproofdiesel.com

BulletProof FICM Power Supply, 4-Pin, 6-Phase, Black, 48-58 Volts

The Bullet Proof FICM is an upgraded power supply which is now available in both a 4-phase or 6-phase version. The Bullet Proof FICM also comes with an all-billet aluminum housing for improved heat dissipation and an updated look.
bulletproofdiesel.com bulletproofdiesel.com

I Also had to put in 2 High Pressure oil pumps, so if you replace it, go with a good brand, saving money on this will cost you way more in the long run,

I kept the EGR due to easy registration, but did a
https://bulletproofdiesel.com/collections/egr-coolers?utm_source=adwords&utm_medium={adname}&utm_campaign={campaignname}&utm_content={adgroupname}&utm_keyword=%2Bford%20%2B6.0%20%2Begr%20%2Bcooler&utm_matchtype=b&campaign_id=13290376750&ad_group_id=125665016609&ad_id=704061583122&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4v6-BhDuARIsALprm31t5_OXzICnIpUOu8TCSEZOCcebBlvb2cBjf2a3XvWLHdVo9DbJ3bsaApbwEALw_wcB

I also had to do a Aluminum Radiator, the factory one went out in 50,000 miles, was easy to do, took a couple of hours
 
I also forgot, when the EGR goes, it takes out the oil cooler, the oil cooler is deep in the motor, so Labor is up there to fix it,

MAJOR ISSUE WITH THE 6.0 COMPARED TO A 6.7, the 6.0 is a small cube motor and to make the power it is a 20-25psi and spike to 28psi on boost,
My 6.7 is a 19psi and spikes to 22.2 psi,

So how do you not blow head gaskets at a quick spike over 20pis with only 10 head bolt that are 10.9 grade, Not happening, not with a GM-LS not with a LSX, and not with a Ford 6.0

HEAD BOLTS WILL NOT FIX IT IF YOU ARE NOT SMART ABOUT IT,
ARP is not ARP, I build a lot of boosted LS and is around the same line,
87 and 2000 chromoly will not cut the beans over 20psi, DONT WAIST THE MONY ON ARP2000 it will not fix the issue,

DOES NOT EXSPAND
ARP aerospace 625 material is the only material stronger than the block
ARP 250-4205 Head studs
AGE625 material

 
When you look at the
International For the Ford 6.0 Truck and the International VT365, Same motor but setup completely different,
The VT365 Chassis, has a very low Rear End Gear for the Super C,
and
The VT365 is a 15psi boost with surge up to 20psi,
 
O-ringing the block is probably the best you're gonna be able to do to try to prevent fire ring failures on that 6 point blow along with all the other things already mentioned.
 
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