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In this picture it's my understanding the one on the right with the white head sends the temperature to the OEM computer (critical sensor) - and the one on the left with the brown head grounds out and turns on the fan at 210ish - but they sell an aftermarket sensor that will kick on the fan as 195 vs the OEM 210ish...but I'm not sure who sells it, just read it somewhere.
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You're mostly correct.

This must be an earlier engine. The single wire sensor would be for the dash gauge. Is this connected with the harness you got from Nick? Or, what was left from the bone yard?.

The "brown head" sensor you mentioned is not in this pic, it's on the actual tstat cover. It is the one that turns the fans on, and is also the one noted a couple posts back.

Feel free to give me a call sometime tomorrow if you need to.
 
You're mostly correct.

This must be an earlier engine. The single wire sensor would be for the dash gauge. Is this connected with the harness you got from Nick? Or, what was left from the bone yard?.

The "brown head" sensor you mentioned is not in this pic, it's on the actual tstat cover. It is the one that turns the fans on, and is also the one noted a couple posts back.

Feel free to give me a call sometime tomorrow if you need to.
The picture I posted above was from @nzulmer's post...was trying to help him from info you told me before :). I'm still months away from getting my engine runnung.
 
If I want to get rid of the stock fuel pressure regulator, and NOT buy aftermarket fuel rails - converting this fuel line to a 6AN seems to be the best option. What have others done? I could just cut this line and have a push on to female or male 6AN? Or?

1742653627557.png
 
If I want to get rid of the stock fuel pressure regulator, and NOT buy aftermarket fuel rails - converting this fuel line to a 6AN seems to be the best option. What have others done? I could just cut this line and have a push on to female or male 6AN? Or?

View attachment 140530
Yes, you can cut it off and use a AN fitting that has a crimp connector with ferrul inside.

 
But, why?

Think you're going to do it better than Honda?
Looks - the stock regulator is ugly...I plan to get it running with the OEM setup, then switch it out eventually. Plus, it's location it not ideal being it's a mid-engine. By moving the regulator, I can simplify and clean up the fuel lines.
 
Looks - the stock regulator is ugly...I plan to get it running with the OEM setup, then switch it out eventually. Plus, it's location it not ideal being it's a mid-engine. By moving the regulator, I can simplify and clean up the fuel lines.
I had a -8an fitting welded on the line that goes into the fuel rail. Used an aeromotive fuel pressure regulator instead of the oem one.
 
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